Charging

[hondatri]

Had a quick check on Bike. Ignition on Shows Full  discharge, I pulled all fuses except Power Fuse No Difference still full discharge, Turned Kill switch off and needle went to 4amp discharge. Having a go at wiring Tomorrow.

[Lobo]

Good luck today finding that gremlin.

4A does sound a little on the high side...  I'm sorry I can't check against my bike as not near it.

Before you start your testing, simply try pulling the BLACK feed off the regulator, to see if the current drops further, it ought to... In fact it ought to go to zero as (assuming coils off / lights off) there should be no live circuits in the bike at this point. If a significant current drain still exists.. it is likely a loom fault.

On page # 1 of this thread I posted the regulator test. I'd suggest this is your next step.

You might also check the continuity of the generator field coil.. (WHITE / GREEN leads) ... it should be 4.6 - 5 ohms according to my book.

Work carefully... damage is possible... eg don't disconnect t the RED/ WHITE whilst engine running. If you haven't a good set of notes (Haynes etc) I'd suggest you get one first.

Cheers...

[Lobo]

... just one further thought 'TRI, particularly if a current drain continues after you've disconnected the regulator...

If the rectifier is u/s, it is possible that battery current will 'reverser flow' through it and down to earth. In the below pic I've illustrated what I mean... eg the lowers most bridge has failed.  On this page is the method of checking / testing this component,

Cheers,
Simon

[hondatri]

 I took the tank off the bike and located where all the Power inline connectors. I disconnected all the supply wires from the Power supply (Blk/Wh) then cleaned them and reconnected one by one until I found the Culprit. The Previous owner had fitted a Boyer Bransden  :)ignition to it. I ran a wire direct from the power supply connector and all was well. I did not investigate further I fitted a wire permantely from Blk/White supply to the Coils and BB unit all looks good now Ign on -2amps running up to 5k and Amps increase to 4A. Looking at all the corroded connectors My next job is to remove all and Solder them. Thanks to all who helped especially Lobo and Bryan.

[Lobo]

Great... elects can be a pain / very time consuming.

Personally, a little unsure of 'soldering' all connections... this will drive you nuts down the track. Eg today's troubleshooting would have been so much harder. Wherever possible I'd recommend you stick to standard... slthough the OEM sized bullet connectors are indeed difficult to source.

[hondatri]

Thanks Lobo for all your information and Diagrams which I have now filed hoping I dond need them again. You made an Old man Happy (80 yo} and still in the saddle Bike only.

[Lobo]

Hi again,

Just to be sure I'm reading it right... your kill switch is still part of the circuit & able to cut off the engine?  Hope so, otherwise potentially dangerous, presume you've checked this.

V.impressed @ the 80 yo bit! You've 25yrs on me... can only hope I'm still enjoying my Hondas that far down the track!

Cheers,
Simon

[SteveD CB500K0]

I was impressed too. I must start an age thread "Add your age + your bike".
There's one been going on the US site for years, although they do seem to have a lot of members who are younger than their bike!

The oldest I know of is John Baker from Coventry (85). Goes by the name Old_biker. He's a member here but hasn't logged in for ages.


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[hondatri]

Thanks Lobo Yep the Kill switch still in circuit.  The bike now seems fine. I intend to attack the Timing Chain  and Guides over the winter so I may be looking for info then. Thanks for all the info I gave my 2 Sons my Old triumphs a 1971 T100 and a 63 T21 with full bathtub and they presented me with a 2001Suzuki  GS500E.
But I prefer riding the 400/4.