DIY engine painting..help!

[orangepeelneil]

Hello everyone,

Sure this has come up loads.
Looking for ideas/options for DIY painting my engine on a budget (without taking it to bits)  whilst the frame is away being powdercoated.

The bottom end looks like it has been painted before and is started to come away(original finish?) whilst the top end is pretty dirty, which I've started to clean it up, but the black muck is pretty tough.

I think I would like to keep it silver.
How best to approach this? I guess prepartion is the key (literally!! for the painting)

Do I fully clean and degrease (with e.g a toothbrush and....?)  then mask, primer and spray.
If so which products and process do members recommend?

Not having much luck with the cleaning so far...

Many thanks in advance
Cheers Neil

[philward]

There's lots of threads on here with lots of varying views.  I used Hammerite Smooth Silver rattle cans on my 750k2. Prep wise, I have done a few full engines without stripping them (my k2 was fully stripped through) and have decreased with your choice of degreaser (I used petrol) then used my favorite resto tool - rotory wire brush in  drill. You can get a full set of varying shape and sizes on ebay. When using on the crankcases, 'blunt' the wire brush first be using it on some steel. USE SAFETY GOGGLES because the wires can fly off sometimes. And obviously make sure that the engine holes are masked properly. Have done 500 miles since resto - albeit in good weather - and finish is as original and mint.
Phil

[Mike on a bike]

As far as prepping goes on my project when I get to the stage of engine painting I am going down the soda blasting route. Look it up on YouTube.
As for paint I have had this recommended....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PJ1-SATIN-BLACK-CAR-MOTORBIKE-FRAME-PAINT-FIT-TRIUMPH-1050-Tiger-SE-10-11/401072432732?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3D5cccc129e0b142e39c23b0f03871a3e4%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D281474787277

[Chris400F]

I used Hammerite Smooth Silver rattle cans on my 750k2.

I have used Hammerite Smooth on various things but never thought of using it on an engine. I can't find any figures as to how heat resistant it is but if you say it works then that sounds fine to me. Did you use any sort of primer or just spray on to bare metal? (Normally for using on non-ferrous surfaces they recommend using their Special Primer). Thanks.

[philward]

Chris
I didn't use primer - sprayed straight onto crankcases. I also sprayed head and barrel as well. I remember researching subject of what paint to use on the forum (and/or .net forum) before making a decision so there must be some threads discussing colour match and heat related info knocking about. I seem to remember that some people cured the paint in an over as well.
Phil

[Orcade-Ian]

I have used Hammerite silver smoothrite in spray cans on many engines, the first being my 350/4.  This has been in use for over 10 years and still looks great.  I cleaned all traces of original crap and paint and scrubbed it up with those stainless wire wool scrubbers, then etch primed with Upol acid etch 8, just a thin coat, then on with the Smoothrite.  I removed some of the visible bolts a couple at a time and sprayed around where the bolt head sits, replated (zinc kit) the bolts and refitted.  I have a stock of spare bolts to make it easier.  A couple of years into use and I had a carb leak fuel over the top case which sat for a while before I discovered it and it cleaned off without a problem on the finish.
I am doing the spare 350/4 engine and another 400/4 at the moment but both of those were completely stripped.
As usual they are featured on my site:
www.stallard-engineering.co.uk

Regards,
Ian

[Lynx]

What ever you use, the cases must be completely freeze, dirt and flake free. Personally I got a great finish with Simoniz Aluminium Engine Enamel. If you can cure it in the oven it gives a really tough finish.

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[Lynx]

Petrol and a tooth brush is best for getting thick grease off. Do it in the road as to not stainless your drive 😉.

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[masonmart]

If you want to do a quality job rather than a short term one then the only way to do it is to strip down the engine completely and blast it. Soda blasting has the advantage of not possibly leaving grit in passageways etc., but bead blasting is the best quality finish for painting or for just taking bare alloy of the barrel and head down to a lovely matt finish without paint. It's a pain but you have to be very careful about closing of any oilways to avoid getting grit in. Blind threaded holes can be closed off with what is usually a 6mm bolt. Paint the exterior with Ford Silver Fox two-pack epoxy paint and the finish is beautiful and hard wearing.

[boilermaker1]

I painted my engine a few months ago,I did not strip the engine. I blocked all openings and had the engine bead blasted. Painted it Simonz engine enamel..This paint requires curing so  I had to make up a big plywood box and line it with tinfoil .
I purchased a cheap cooking thermometer on ebay, Used a heat gun to get it up to temp.
It took five hours to cure paint properly . very happy with end result.
I got the idea from sohc USA forum

[mike the bike]

I'm impressed with your diy oven idea.

[Chris400F]

Me too. What sort of temperature do you need to cure the paint at?

[Rozabikes Tim]

Just see it now. Have you been cooking the roast in my oven Dorris?

Excellent though in All seriousness.

[Spitfire]

Chips with that ? US Automotive VHT 200c for one hour.



Cheers

Dennis

[Valentinik]

Chips with that ? US Automotive VHT 200c for one hour.



Cheers

Dennis

This was going to be my method but the wife was adamant that it wasn't as it would make the oven smell 

Mike