Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 15, 2024, 11:47:04 AM
Whilst Im waiting for the frame painting I am getting on with the head. All valves etc are out, the head is decarboned and Im now decarboning the valves pre to lapping them in. Whilst working on the inlet valve for #2 cyclinder I can see there is damage/an imperfection in the valve face (see picture). Should this valve be replaced with a new one and if so is it OK to replace one valve only? I have checked piston #2 and there is no sign of any impact damage on the piston. Also there is a single valve collet hiding somehwere on the floor of the shed which Im hoping to find but is so far proving elusive. Thanks, Mike
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 15, 2024, 12:26:52 PM
I found a good used valve that (Steve at 400fourbits) I did not need to have refaced so it was an inexpensive fix.
I was able to do a normal had grind presumably as it was a standard factory cut valve.
Post by: Bryanj on May 15, 2024, 12:56:53 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 15, 2024, 01:52:37 PM
PM me your address and i will send you a used oneThank you so much Bryan. I have sent you a PM.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 15, 2024, 01:56:34 PM
Post by: Bryanj on May 15, 2024, 02:15:53 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 15, 2024, 02:16:46 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 15, 2024, 03:49:43 PM
Call me a vandal - I put my valve in an electric drill using an old screwdriver holding it as a cutting tool. I kept away from the vet edges then finished the job with 400 grit Wet & Dry.That’s quite reassuring Ted. I will continue Dremelling for now then. You don’t say if the bike ran or not after you did this though; I assume it did :-)
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 15, 2024, 05:00:20 PM
Call me a vandal - I put my valve in an electric drill using an old screwdriver holding it as a cutting tool. I kept away from the very edges then finished the job with 400 grit Wet & Dry.That’s quite reassuring Ted. I will continue Dremelling for now then. You don’t say if the bike ran or not after you did this though; I assume it did :-)
Yes it ran and still does - I've used this method for decades on mainly on car engines in the days of leaded petrol.
Post by: Laverda Dave on May 15, 2024, 11:09:04 PM
Post by: davidcumbria on May 16, 2024, 07:19:09 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 16, 2024, 03:14:22 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 16, 2024, 04:33:21 PM
I assume you have removed the spring.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 16, 2024, 04:54:52 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 16, 2024, 05:38:57 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 16, 2024, 05:52:31 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 16, 2024, 06:27:07 PM
Post by: Bryanj on May 16, 2024, 08:06:28 PM
Post by: andy120t on May 17, 2024, 08:08:33 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 17, 2024, 07:20:00 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on May 17, 2024, 07:35:26 PM
Post by: Bryanj on May 17, 2024, 08:01:53 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 17, 2024, 09:32:15 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 17, 2024, 09:37:12 PM
Post by: DomP on May 17, 2024, 09:51:31 PM
Post by: Bryanj on May 18, 2024, 08:14:45 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on May 20, 2024, 09:12:12 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on May 20, 2024, 09:55:46 PM
Ideal if you fit a new bottom race and then need to remove it to fit a shim underneath.
I bought one for myself as it was not expensive when I was fitting a taper roller kit to my 500. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403899872756
Alternatively as you described plus heat might help.
.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 01, 2024, 09:37:59 PM
I have been studying the manual I have (Haynes) to ensure when it comes to putting the barrels and head back on that I am familiar as possible with the approach but I’m finding it difficult to be sure that I know what O rings go where. Some of the instructions in the manual are vague. I have had a look in Aladdin’s Cave for something more definitive like an exploded diagram or something but so far have not been able to find anything. Can anyone point me in the direction of any material or instructions that would help with this?
Thanks
Post by: Bryanj on June 01, 2024, 10:14:00 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 01, 2024, 10:39:53 PM
As you probably know the block base gasket fits on the crankcase, the larger four block seal rings fit in the groove on the underside of the block. You will need to use red rubber grease on them so they stay in place when you fit the block over the pistons. You also have the fiddly part of fitting the cam chain tensioner blades. You might find it helpful to read that section in my 500 project thread (Page 35) or another members thread.
Using the search facility on this site will also list posts where a subject has arisen before so you can be read a variety of solutions & outcomes.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 02, 2024, 04:25:28 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 02, 2024, 09:00:25 PM
There is an old 550 parts book on Ashs list, i know as i sent it him.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 02, 2024, 10:35:46 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 03, 2024, 12:14:05 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 16, 2024, 09:10:08 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on June 16, 2024, 09:15:22 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 16, 2024, 10:12:02 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 17, 2024, 02:05:42 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 17, 2024, 03:06:10 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 17, 2024, 03:21:53 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 17, 2024, 05:22:00 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 22, 2024, 04:35:27 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 22, 2024, 04:41:21 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on June 22, 2024, 06:29:05 PM
I filled a flat on a SS washer on my 500.
Post by: Seabeowner on June 22, 2024, 07:06:45 PM
Later 550s have 7mm bolts then no spacers are fitted.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 22, 2024, 08:24:23 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 26, 2024, 03:06:00 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 26, 2024, 07:13:58 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 26, 2024, 09:18:12 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on June 27, 2024, 10:15:49 AM
Post by: Bryanj on June 27, 2024, 10:34:14 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on June 27, 2024, 07:04:42 PM
Just a standard grease gun for doing the ones on a digger etc.
I tried it thinking there’s enough pressure to re tighten the tracks on a 25 tonne slew so a piston shouldn’t be too much trouble as mentioned and proven.
I did mine after employing the process on an old Ducati 748/853 I had some years ago After doing it, a pal rang me and suggested trying it, typical but you’d be surprised what you can shift using this process if you can get suitable purchase.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on July 14, 2024, 09:10:43 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on July 14, 2024, 09:16:01 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on July 14, 2024, 10:47:25 PM
It usually has a grey type look about it.
Maybe worthwhile draining and cleaning mastercylinder, then refit and try again to assess from there.
To quantify wear, working on many cycle hydraulic brakes, it's something that shows in system with both aluminium bore and aluminium piston together, also when you use abrasives on aluminium it first gets grey, then black-er as it removes material. Unlikely but possible from initial movement.
Cleaned out and with refill, at least you can see if it develops again in fairly short order.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 06, 2024, 02:59:52 PM
A good ponder before action I think.
Post by: Bryanj on August 06, 2024, 08:26:21 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 06, 2024, 08:35:56 PM
Post by: Bryanj on August 06, 2024, 08:57:23 PM
Yes that gable grounds at coils
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 06, 2024, 09:42:08 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 07, 2024, 06:15:19 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 07, 2024, 06:41:15 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 08, 2024, 04:51:56 PM
Also, the male spade connector block (6 way) has melted where the green ground wire in it burned out and I would like to replace it. Can anyone recommend a source for a new M&F connector block, M&F spades that are good quality?
Thanks
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 08, 2024, 05:13:04 PM
I could not find the listings on their site so I e-mailed them and after a couple of photos it was all sorted. My loom was a K1 with the single fuse if yours is the same PM and I will look for the invoice that has the part numbers, if it was an online receipt I think it will be lost as I lost a lot of old e-mails..
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 08, 2024, 05:22:47 PM
1 set(s) US6WW 6.3mm 6 way white Loom Connectorr (M&F)
1 set(s) US8WW 6.3mm 8 way white
1 set(s) US9WW 6.3mm 9 way white
They also sell the 4 way connectors & right size bullets etc.
They came with new terminals in the packs - my existing ones cleaned up with Cilit Bank Limescale cleaner as per NJ's advice.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 08, 2024, 05:54:36 PM
Any idea why the splicing of wires in the loom might have been done; Im just curious.
Post by: Bryanj on August 08, 2024, 05:59:11 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 08, 2024, 06:02:20 PM
The cost of individual connectors soon adds up so if it's really bad a loom if available might be worth considering.
I sourced my 400 loom from the link below - all the colours were as the original one.
Big Al has a good reputation here.
.https://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Wiring-Harnesses.html
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 08, 2024, 06:28:07 PM
Distinguishing features that don't seem to match the parts books in the archive are the aluminium idiot light console, ignition switch is not between the clocks and the petrol tank cap is not underneath a cover/flap. Although maybe I have been reading the parts books wrong. Is there anything I can refer to on the forum that would help me determine the correct model/variant?
Thanks again for the great help
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 08, 2024, 06:44:40 PM
Pretty sure if you get in touch with Elextrexworld and tell them how many fuses you have. where the ignition switch is, where your panel lights are - they will advise you if theirs is suitable.
Like you I like to be sure I'm ordering the right part. It does not help that on older bikes parts are often fitted with parts from different model variants. Poor avialibility of parts on old Hondas in the past has not helped. My 500 was described by Bryan as a Bitza - hasn't stopped me doing the rebuild even though I have some odd switch gear that took some working out. With lots of help here I've almost finished my 500 moneypit.
I suspect VJMC only really tells you the date of the frame you had when it left the factory not what might have been changed by previous owners.
Post by: Bryanj on August 08, 2024, 07:26:49 PM
Questions to id the bike
1 does it have 3 fuses(plus 2 spare)
2 does it have lights on/off on RH switchgear
3 does it have the "safety interlock" system on the starter(swich on clutch lever housing, diode or safety box under LH sidepanel)
Lastly PM your frame and engine number and i will check it in my US id book
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 08, 2024, 07:39:34 PM
Definitely had the microswitch in the clutch housing but there isn't a place for it in the replacement one I got; the original is not usable as the lever had been broken off.
The idiot light panel is already polished by me; I couldn't resist it.
Will check the RH switchgear and dig out the frame number when next in the shed; many thanks, much appreciated!
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 08, 2024, 07:49:42 PM
CB550-1243531
There are 3 fuses in the fuse holder next to each other but I don't know if any of these are spares. Picture below
Post by: Bryanj on August 08, 2024, 08:38:34 PM
It may be in your interest to get a uk RH switch so you can turn the lights off, there is a sort of changeover switch on the start button to turn the lights off when starting that can give problems
Post by: Bryanj on August 09, 2024, 02:34:56 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 09, 2024, 05:55:48 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 26, 2024, 01:29:21 PM
Post by: Bryanj on August 26, 2024, 03:16:09 PM
Your back
Your aches
Your choice
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 26, 2024, 03:25:47 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 26, 2024, 06:15:06 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 09, 2024, 03:45:52 PM
Im guessing this isn't uncommon and I wondered if there are any fixes other than paying DS £200 plus postage for a 'new one'? Please let me know if there are and what to do.
From reading some of the replies I got when I first mentioned the damage I got the impression that a way of dealing with this is: compress the adjuster whilst fitting it to the barrels and holding it against the camchain tunnel wall where the adjuster pokes through, tighten the nut (above washer and O ring) to retain it in the compressed position, refit barrels, head, camchain, set cam timing etc and when all together release the adjuster nut to allow the tensioner to tension the chain and nip it up in that position. Again, any thoughts on this approach would be very much appreciated.
Mike
Post by: Johnny4428 on October 09, 2024, 04:33:49 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 09, 2024, 04:45:05 PM
Post by: Bryanj on October 09, 2024, 10:40:33 PM
Before you fit the assembly i suggest you check that the teeth on the rack and bolt engage properly as forcing the crew can spread the main side plates and you loose proper tooth engagement or even damage teeth
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 10, 2024, 08:01:38 AM
Post by: DomP on October 10, 2024, 10:49:43 AM
Post by: Bryanj on October 10, 2024, 03:40:01 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 10, 2024, 08:48:20 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 12, 2024, 09:50:14 PM
One question and I’m sure there will be more is about the oil control valves in the block that mate with the barrels. Should I clean these, blow them out with an airline or something? I’m a bit wary of doing anything as the parts book describes them as valves and so may have small moving parts inside. What prep, if any, is sensible for these parts?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 12, 2024, 09:52:30 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 12, 2024, 09:56:39 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 12, 2024, 10:01:22 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 13, 2024, 10:01:50 PM
Any thoughts, corrections or general ridicule at my interpretation welcomed. Cheers, Mike
Post by: DomP on October 13, 2024, 10:20:51 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 13, 2024, 10:25:39 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 16, 2024, 03:48:26 PM
Can anyone give me any advice as to how to ensure that this is fitted correctly? The engine bottom end is in the frame; not on a bench/stand.
Thanks, Mike
Post by: Johnny4428 on October 16, 2024, 04:30:59 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 16, 2024, 04:53:24 PM
Post by: Sesman on October 16, 2024, 05:49:12 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 16, 2024, 06:59:50 PM
Mike, also try checking by looking via the sump plate.What an excellent suggestion, thanks! What should I be looking for? I'll have to use the camera on the phone as the engine is in the frame and I don't have a lift.
By sump plate do you mean the sump pan with the oil drain plug in it or is the sump plate something else?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 16, 2024, 07:54:41 PM
A mirror and torch beam should be as good as a phone.
Post by: DomP on October 16, 2024, 08:00:47 PM
Mike, also try checking by looking via the sump plate.
I had to do this to put my mind at rest after my engine rebuild, it's possible to get a good enough view.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 16, 2024, 09:26:20 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 18, 2024, 05:46:47 PM
I am still a bit confused about the timing marks though. I have attached a picture of the alignment of the timing marks I used for setting the camshaft and the position of the camshaft end notch whilst the timing marks are aligned. Does it look like I have done this right (its the timing mark for 1.4 cylinders you can see)?
Post by: Bryanj on October 18, 2024, 06:54:52 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 18, 2024, 07:52:11 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 21, 2024, 08:29:55 AM
Exhaust system coming this week (4 into 1 Stainless Delkevic) and once that is on the next mountain to scale is the electrics.
Mike
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 21, 2024, 09:36:23 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on October 21, 2024, 10:33:32 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 21, 2024, 11:21:54 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on October 21, 2024, 12:13:42 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241021/7c2240d6ba912374f0466ddb9a7d5698.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 21, 2024, 12:29:17 PM
Indeed Mike, just had a quote from Chromefix for the following - £380 + VAT.Ouch! If you zoom in you might be able to see my silver painted clock dishes too - didn't work out quite how I had pictured them in my minds eye.
Post by: Johnny4428 on October 21, 2024, 12:39:12 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on October 21, 2024, 12:48:59 PM
All in all and thanks to all the advice and guidance from the forum; good progress this weekend. The engine is now back together, valve timing done and inlet tappets set. The exhaust tappets will be set shortly when the feeler gauges arrive which will allow me to measure the right gap. My current gauges gave me the choice of 0.05mm and 0.1mm with nothing in between. I also had a nice surprise in that I had a proper look at the tank and the seat for the first time since I had stripped the bike down. The seat pan has very little corrosion, just some pitting coming through the paint in places and the tank has just one dent; I thought it had 2 for some reason.
Exhaust system coming this week (4 into 1 Stainless Delkevic) and once that is on the next mountain to scale is the electrics.
Mike
You can set the tappet clearance without feeler gauges if you know the thread pitch of the adjuster screw.
For example; pitch of 0.5mm, half a turn gives 0.25, quarter turn 0.125mm.
Bryan will be along shortly to give the right amount of rotation.
Post by: Sesman on October 21, 2024, 12:59:31 PM
Indeed Mike, just had a quote from Chromefix for the following - £380 + VAT.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20241021/7c2240d6ba912374f0466ddb9a7d5698.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Might be cheaper to buy some of that new?
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on October 21, 2024, 01:16:21 PM
All in all and thanks to all the advice and guidance from the forum; good progress this weekend. The engine is now back together, valve timing done and inlet tappets set. The exhaust tappets will be set shortly when the feeler gauges arrive which will allow me to measure the right gap. My current gauges gave me the choice of 0.05mm and 0.1mm with nothing in between. I also had a nice surprise in that I had a proper look at the tank and the seat for the first time since I had stripped the bike down. The seat pan has very little corrosion, just some pitting coming through the paint in places and the tank has just one dent; I thought it had 2 for some reason.
Exhaust system coming this week (4 into 1 Stainless Delkevic) and once that is on the next mountain to scale is the electrics.
Mike
You can set the tappet clearance without feeler gauges if you know the thread pitch of the adjuster screw.
For example; pitch of 0.5mm, half a turn gives 0.25, quarter turn 0.125mm.
Bryan will be along shortly to give the right amount of rotation.
Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. The feeler gauges have just arrived though so I will use them for now.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 01, 2024, 11:32:49 AM
I have new rubber boots from carbs to plenum; I am assuming that the 2 rubbers without the curve/bend in them are for carbs 2 and 3 and that the ones with the bend in them are for carbs 1 and 4 and they are orientated in the plenum so that the intake venturi bit of the boot faces towards where the air flows in, ie towards the airbox itself. Is that right?
Cheers, Mike
Post by: Sesman on November 01, 2024, 11:58:12 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 01, 2024, 03:06:22 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 01, 2024, 03:09:43 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on November 01, 2024, 04:33:56 PM
Yes, thanks. It is the portion that is inside the plenum I am trying to work out as 2 of the boots are concentric and 2 of them have an angled portion that sits in the plenum. I am assuming that the one in your picture (carb #1) is angled on the inside of the plenum, away from the choke lever and towards the paper element?
On the original Honda rubbers there is a small raised pip on the rubber which lines up with a raised pip on the plastic airbox. Pattern rubbers may not have the pips.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 01, 2024, 05:26:04 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on November 01, 2024, 05:47:25 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 01, 2024, 05:49:16 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 02, 2024, 12:42:35 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 02, 2024, 12:53:05 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 02, 2024, 02:46:36 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 02, 2024, 08:40:54 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 04, 2024, 06:56:38 PM
Seeing that the earth wire from the rectifier through to the ring terminal at the coils had burnt out I want to be sure the earthing is sound. The engine mounting bracket where the battery earth terminal is fitted is not painted and I am assuming I should also ensure that the engine casting lug that is behind it is paint-free (its not at the moment). What other precautions should I take to ensure good earth pathways?
Thanks, Mike
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on November 17, 2024, 10:39:48 AM
Im now slowly fitting everything back to the bike. I have mislaid the Ignition Coil wire protector (504 323 000) and I am assuming that if I cant find it then provided there is some protection between the coil wire and the weld seam in the frame to stop rubbing this is not an essential part?
I have also removed the tatty old insulation tape from the battery earth strap - see picture below. I think this may well have contributed to the poor earthing in the bike? I will be replacing the earth strap.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 08, 2024, 05:39:17 PM
As it turned out I had some time later in the day so I adjusted the camchain tensioner and ran the bike again. There was less top end noise than previously but still more than I would expect so I will check/reset tappet clearances again before the next test. This time I got fuel leaking from carb number 2, I tried tapping the floatbowl with a piece of wood; quite hard. This made no difference, the leak seems to be from the top of the float bowl as opposed to out of the overflow pipe - this needs more investigation. Also, the hanging once warm was more pronounced as once warm and the throttle blipped it sat at 3000 rpm. Theres plenty of threads on hanging i will read through to see if I can work that out.
On the overflowing/leaky carb I am guessing there is no way round that apart from taking the carbs off (and the plenum etc etc - aaargh!) to investigate that - if anyone has any tricks and tips on that I would be very appreciative!
Overall though Im really pleased with the progress and thanks again all for the help to get this far.
Post by: Nurse Julie on December 08, 2024, 06:31:01 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 08, 2024, 06:37:49 PM
Pretty sure that's how I did mine iirc.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 08, 2024, 06:57:57 PM
Post by: Bryanj on December 08, 2024, 09:24:53 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 08, 2024, 10:12:35 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 09, 2024, 08:56:58 AM
You might know this already Mike, I used Kens method for adjusting the cam chain. Holding the kickstart by hand so you are pushing against the compression, having released the tensioner lock nut. Having released the lock nut the chain tensioner will take up the slack, then just nip the lock nut in position. You can then tighten it up properly by using the screwdriver slot to hold the screw and a spanner to tighten it up.
Pretty sure that's how I did mine iirc.
Can this method also be used for the 400/4 Bryan?
Post by: Bryanj on December 09, 2024, 09:39:04 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 12, 2024, 08:34:25 PM
I have both bowls, floats, hinge pins and float valves off to clean/ inspect and check float heights for #1 and #2 and will rebuild and check again in the baking tin.
Is there any significance in where the leak is coming from?
Post by: Bryanj on December 12, 2024, 08:37:12 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 12, 2024, 08:51:23 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 12, 2024, 09:10:13 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 12, 2024, 09:11:34 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on December 12, 2024, 09:14:28 PM
Post by: Bryanj on December 12, 2024, 09:17:45 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 12, 2024, 09:35:50 PM
Post by: DomP on December 12, 2024, 10:42:17 PM
Keep at it though, you'll get there with the help of the forum!
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 15, 2024, 03:38:44 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 15, 2024, 03:42:53 PM
Post by: Sesman on December 15, 2024, 04:25:26 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 15, 2024, 04:29:53 PM
Hey, Ted. Which filters did you choose please?
The Aeroline ones, they are all alloy so don't fall apart, recommended to me by a member Alankelly.
.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156060789462
Post by: Sesman on December 15, 2024, 04:53:39 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 16, 2024, 06:39:33 AM
I used Ted's logic that might be warped, I have the feed pressing on the outside of the filter cone.
Post by: Sesman on December 16, 2024, 11:14:26 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 22, 2024, 05:17:50 PM
So I thought I would open up the bag I put the seat in to protect it and see what needs doing on the seat. It looks in fairly good nick as far as I can tell, there is a very small tear/split in it which I think can be arrested by using a small smear of wader repair glue & I have a set of new buckles to replace the corroded ones on the strap.
That leaves the solid but no longer attractive 'chrome' seat trim. Its gone white and blotchy in places and I would like to replace it but it looks like it is an integral part of what holds the seat cover in place. I have seen a number of adverts for trim material but thought I would ask on the forum first what folks have found works and what to avoid.
Heres a couple of photos; suggestions very much appreciated:
Post by: Bryanj on December 22, 2024, 06:34:29 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 22, 2024, 08:24:01 PM
What you have is part of the cover and cant be replaced on its own, the strip you can buy fits over the steel lip of the baseThanks Bryan, do you mean that strip you can buy goes over the top of the one that is part of the cover and hides it or do you mean that the one you can buy won’t work as this seat has the strip as an integral part already? Cheers, Mike
Post by: Bryanj on December 22, 2024, 09:19:32 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on December 22, 2024, 09:26:55 PM
I mean it wont work as the intergral strip makes the edge too thickThanks Bryan.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 15, 2025, 12:07:03 PM
Post by: taysidedragon on February 15, 2025, 12:31:52 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 15, 2025, 01:20:18 PM
https://classic-bikes.de/en/halter-zuendschloss-50375-323-020-cb-500-four-3
Or you could try and convert one from another Honda, like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355826761648?fits=UKM_Make%3AHonda&_skw=honda+cb500%2F550+ignition+switch+bracket&itmmeta=01JM4VW45G78R33ZWE9X6D5DBC&hash=item52d8ed7fb0:g:05EAAOSwWz9mfoYb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dUJsWFJvjhRU0xXa6u%2BNzZGPY%2BpyOaGSipf9G%2FyH2lDGGhUaRy6yLf0pCEOSU6sSWogNO5ixQzA%2FR0Kk3DwLugO93l1aA8DenBUUNgQSD76BhVEwHxk13p3Toh5WFLpH2z6qxXObq5hnF5M2kQoA8fav4oUPzVcqpPIE0NgQiP7tLsx1%2B8C83hD3ea0U8onvR2GJHknkcwK9IgfIooRraTFMmi9PyrspXGa%2B%2F8a11fm65ZtylLQx3B8dPBmowgyWfjIJvq6riJ6WPeUGOBqamWlziIJQpVN32cmUvSWQOAI51%2BJ9bam2wB30AVoLeZJmw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rD8JuhZQ
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 15, 2025, 01:44:42 PM
How about this Mike.Thanks! That is the first place I have seen that actually have something!
https://classic-bikes.de/en/halter-zuendschloss-50375-323-020-cb-500-four-3
Or you could try and convert one from another Honda, like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355826761648?fits=UKM_Make%3AHonda&_skw=honda+cb500%2F550+ignition+switch+bracket&itmmeta=01JM4VW45G78R33ZWE9X6D5DBC&hash=item52d8ed7fb0:g:05EAAOSwWz9mfoYb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dUJsWFJvjhRU0xXa6u%2BNzZGPY%2BpyOaGSipf9G%2FyH2lDGGhUaRy6yLf0pCEOSU6sSWogNO5ixQzA%2FR0Kk3DwLugO93l1aA8DenBUUNgQSD76BhVEwHxk13p3Toh5WFLpH2z6qxXObq5hnF5M2kQoA8fav4oUPzVcqpPIE0NgQiP7tLsx1%2B8C83hD3ea0U8onvR2GJHknkcwK9IgfIooRraTFMmi9PyrspXGa%2B%2F8a11fm65ZtylLQx3B8dPBmowgyWfjIJvq6riJ6WPeUGOBqamWlziIJQpVN32cmUvSWQOAI51%2BJ9bam2wB30AVoLeZJmw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4rD8JuhZQ
Post by: Johnny4428 on February 15, 2025, 01:57:46 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 15, 2025, 01:59:24 PM
If they won't or it's too expensive see if a member in Europe will buy on your behalf and send it on, something I've done a few times.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 15, 2025, 02:07:54 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on February 15, 2025, 02:19:56 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on February 15, 2025, 10:49:12 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 16, 2025, 07:21:26 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 16, 2025, 10:39:40 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 17, 2025, 01:00:49 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 17, 2025, 07:46:08 AM
JamesH has messaged me to say he thinks he has one after I posted on the yank Forum to see if anyone had one over the pond. I’ve passed on your identity Mike, hopefully he’ll get in touch soon.thank you!
Post by: JamesH on February 17, 2025, 10:14:12 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 17, 2025, 02:29:14 PM
Mike I’m away until next week - will take a look when I’m back. Jamesperfect, thanks James. I have plenty to be getting on with at the moment 😁
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 19, 2025, 02:50:38 PM
Post by: Bryanj on February 19, 2025, 03:00:24 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 19, 2025, 03:01:36 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on February 19, 2025, 03:01:52 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 19, 2025, 03:22:13 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 19, 2025, 03:31:19 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 19, 2025, 05:37:09 PM
Unlike the front discs ones the rear sprocket ones are quite thick and heavy, they will withstand quite a lot of abuse before requiring changing.I don’t recall there being any on the front disc when I removed it!
Post by: Oddjob on February 19, 2025, 05:56:47 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 19, 2025, 09:19:02 PM
There are supposed to be 3 on each disc, they are paired, so 2 nuts on each locking bar, shaped like a bone in essence. Same principle, you lock the retaining disc nut in place so there is no chance of one of the disc bolts coming loose or worse falling out and catching the fork slider, which wouldn't be good ::) ::)I just checked the shop manual; looks like these were not fitted to the ‘76 K2 which is what I have so I should be good without?
Post by: Johnny4428 on February 19, 2025, 09:41:38 PM
Unlike the front discs ones the rear sprocket ones are quite thick and heavy, they will withstand quite a lot of abuse before requiring changing.Was thinking of the thinner front disc ones Ken. My mistook.
Post by: Oddjob on February 19, 2025, 10:24:13 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 20, 2025, 11:15:33 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 20, 2025, 12:53:04 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 22, 2025, 12:21:08 PM
When I got the bike it had no air filter in it although all the airbox gubbins was in place so this would mean the airflow into the carbs was unrestricted which I assume would mean less vacuum = weaker mixture which may mean the PO raised the needle height in an effort to compensate?? I am running the bike with a new airfilter and new rubber unions from carbs to inlet manifold and carbs to airbox.
If I remember correctly it is possible to change needle height without removing the carbs; is this right and should I reset the needle heights whilst I am waiting for the wheels and the tank is off?
Cheers, Mike
Post by: taysidedragon on February 22, 2025, 12:37:35 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 22, 2025, 01:37:45 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 22, 2025, 02:15:06 PM
I changed the brassware for a good replacement 500 K1 set from Ken, they are 550 carbs on my 500, I also changed the air side screws for the ones that are hollowed out.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 22, 2025, 02:30:53 PM
Post by: Sesman on February 22, 2025, 02:49:14 PM
NUTS. For the avoidance of doubt see the attached…front and rear.
Post by: Sesman on February 22, 2025, 02:53:32 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 22, 2025, 03:35:50 PM
You count from the top down BTW, in case you didn't know that.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 22, 2025, 04:27:23 PM
Yes. I’d start with 2nd groove on 069A carbs. 4th groove if 022A carbs.I assume you count from the blunt end of the needle ie 2nd groove down from the top/blunt end?
Post by: Oddjob on February 22, 2025, 06:05:34 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 22, 2025, 10:28:45 PM
Mike.that’s what I have, thanks.
NUTS. For the avoidance of doubt see the attached…front and rear.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 22, 2025, 10:33:37 PM
Correct Mike.Thanks.I have the full set of JIS screwdrivers as well as the JIS bits for the impact driver. I don’t intend using the impact driver on the carbs however. I have had the carbs apart numerous times so Im reasonably familiar with the innards.not tried taking the slides out whilst in situ before, only on the bench. I will have a tinker tomorrow.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 23, 2025, 09:24:58 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 23, 2025, 10:43:14 PM
I'll see if I can remember it and post the method.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 24, 2025, 10:19:10 AM
Correct Mike.Thanks.I have the full set of JIS screwdrivers as well as the JIS bits for the impact driver. I don’t intend using the impact driver on the carbs however. I have had the carbs apart numerous times so Im reasonably familiar with the innards.not tried taking the slides out whilst in situ before, only on the bench. I will have a tinker tomorrow.
I think I have seen a video on U-Tube showing how to do it, I did not save the link.
Might be this one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFaFIsYXiPc
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 24, 2025, 11:44:09 AM
that’s it Ted!!! Wonderful, thanks :-)Correct Mike.Thanks.I have the full set of JIS screwdrivers as well as the JIS bits for the impact driver. I don’t intend using the impact driver on the carbs however. I have had the carbs apart numerous times so Im reasonably familiar with the innards.not tried taking the slides out whilst in situ before, only on the bench. I will have a tinker tomorrow.
I think I have seen a video on U-Tube showing how to do it, I did not save the link.
Might be this one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFaFIsYXiPc
Post by: Oddjob on February 24, 2025, 02:00:58 PM
I'd say those carbs have been apart a few times as the screws came out far too easily in my experience. There is also supposed to be a small tab washer on the 2nd 8mm headed bolt he removed IIRC, his seemed to be missing. Watch for pieces falling out, especially that really small cone shaped thing under the nut.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 27, 2025, 08:27:20 PM
I’ve been trying to find the torque setting for the bolts that hold the front brake disc to the hub. Reading a 2017 post to the US forum it reads as if 13 - 18 ft/lb does this sound right?
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 28, 2025, 08:57:57 AM
Post by: Oddjob on February 28, 2025, 02:48:53 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on February 28, 2025, 09:39:57 PM
Post by: Oddjob on February 28, 2025, 09:42:14 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 28, 2025, 09:51:08 PM
Post by: Sesman on March 01, 2025, 07:43:33 AM
Thanks guys. Needles have been adjusted with carbs in situ. The clip was on the 4th slot down from the top so I have relocated in the 2nd groove down from the top. Wheels back with the tyres on correctly so I will be refitting to the bike tomorrow. Well that’s the plan.
Out of interest, Mike. You are running with full airbox and filter? I ask simply as the previous guy probably wasn’t with those settings?
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 01, 2025, 08:53:10 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 01, 2025, 09:06:53 AM
Post by: Bryanj on March 01, 2025, 09:59:40 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 01, 2025, 01:22:13 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 07, 2025, 04:51:47 PM
The strange thing is that at no point has the field coil magnetised the bolts that hold it to the alternator housing.
There seems to be less carb hang too now - maybe lowering the needles has helped this?
Refitting indicators, fuel tap and number plate next.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 09, 2025, 08:41:27 PM
It’s way thanks to a kind forum member) and I can do a test ride up the lane opposite the house.
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on March 09, 2025, 11:00:51 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on March 10, 2025, 01:05:38 AM
Great job mate
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 10, 2025, 06:39:26 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on March 10, 2025, 06:51:01 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 10, 2025, 08:36:55 AM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on March 10, 2025, 08:50:26 AM
Thanks guys :-) and well spotted Johnny - yes there are indicators but I took that picture before they were fitted. They are ultra-bright mini LED ones, you can just see see the right hand rear one in this picture
Cool looking numberplate, both letters involved and colours against the bike.
Post by: Johnny4428 on March 10, 2025, 09:31:32 AM
Post by: Oddjob on March 10, 2025, 03:36:22 PM
As for why the field coil isn't showing magnetism, do you have the rotor cover with the separate badge or the cast in badge? The separate badge could be masking the effect due to it being alloy, you could try removing it and testing again some time in the future, not worth doing it now as it's a bitch to get off without damaging it. Rotor cover needs to be off to get it off without damaging it TBH.
I could do with that number plate, half my forum name :D :D
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 10, 2025, 04:26:20 PM
Post by: Nurse Julie on March 10, 2025, 07:35:28 PM
Post by: Sesman on March 10, 2025, 07:55:14 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 14, 2025, 07:09:32 PM
When I got the bike I completely stripped the carbs, cleaned all parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, and carefully checked all jets etc for blockages. I have re-set the needle heights recently (2nd notch from the top/blunt end); carefully bench synched the carbs. Inlet rubbers are new, manifold rubbers are new. Original air cleaner box/plenum is fitted with a new air filter. Throttle cables are new and I have checked that there is not tension in the throttle cables when throttle is 'off'. Mixture screws are 1 turn out on all carbs.
Is there a routine to follow for diagnosing hanging throttle somebody can point me at please?
Thanks, Mike
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 14, 2025, 08:18:59 PM
Nigel started the subject with a view to gathering together thoughts on the subject, lacks Ken's input as he was not able to contribute at that time.
https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,31510.msg304351.html#msg304351
Post by: DomP on March 14, 2025, 08:49:00 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on March 14, 2025, 10:05:11 PM
This was what stalled my project Mike, as yet I've not got to the bottom of it, partly due to winter but also my mum became very unwell. Sadly she passed away on Wednesday.
Sad to hear about your mum, knowing what it feels like too only further ago. Try and think of all the good memories and times, but appreciate it's difficult initially to do so.
Post by: DomP on March 14, 2025, 10:18:03 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 14, 2025, 10:26:07 PM
Post by: Oddjob on March 15, 2025, 12:04:44 AM
Mike, I’ll post something in a day or so out of respect to Dom if that’s ok.
Post by: DomP on March 15, 2025, 08:45:15 AM
Don't worry about posting Ken, I need to get that project up and running again
Post by: DomP on March 15, 2025, 08:46:14 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on March 15, 2025, 08:53:02 AM
Mike on a cheery note, I like the fact that “nothing fell off†is like a win! (thought it was only me) 😂😂
Post by: andy120t on March 15, 2025, 08:58:49 AM
Post by: Nurse Julie on March 15, 2025, 09:46:14 AM
Post by: Oddjob on March 15, 2025, 10:22:19 AM
Post by: K2-K6 on March 15, 2025, 04:03:06 PM
When it's "hanging" try gently bringing the choke into operation and see if that's going to slow down the idle.
But also don't forget the basic reality check of all cylinders firing, indication of operational idle fuel jets etc (even if they've been cleaned) do this by stating it cold, run 30 sec, then switch off. Now check exhaust headers for temp and any cold cylinder. Cheap,and easy to do, a cold one and it'll never have competent idle running, whatever you do or adjust.
As noted in thread too with John's experience, they'll run with camshaft timed out by a tooth, but you'll get problems again getting it to run correctly.
Post by: Oddjob on March 15, 2025, 04:19:21 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 15, 2025, 05:46:02 PM
I don’t have a vacuum gauge
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 15, 2025, 06:20:39 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 15, 2025, 06:34:44 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on March 15, 2025, 07:08:42 PM
I didn’t Ted as I have dual fuel lines from the fuel tap and I thought there wouldn’t be room. Maybe a poor decision!
If you wanted to do this temporarily even, you can buy more pipe and route down under the carbs, site the two filters there in clear space, then route back up to the carb inlets.
It could be a pragmatic workaround while you deal with getting residual unwanted bits out of the system.
All mechanical things being in order ..... it's "always" fuel restriction against air supply that gives this hanging effect.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 15, 2025, 07:17:35 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 15, 2025, 08:29:57 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 15, 2025, 08:33:54 PM
Can I check the meaning of " fuel restriction against air supply“. Do you mean something is happening to make mixture too lean when throttle is in closed position ie in the idle circuit?I didn’t Ted as I have dual fuel lines from the fuel tap and I thought there wouldn’t be room. Maybe a poor decision!
If you wanted to do this temporarily even, you can buy more pipe and route down under the carbs, site the two filters there in clear space, then route back up to the carb inlets.
It could be a pragmatic workaround while you deal with getting residual unwanted bits out of the system.
All mechanical things being in order ..... it's "always" fuel restriction against air supply that gives this hanging effect.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 15, 2025, 09:28:50 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 15, 2025, 10:24:26 PM
Does this PDF file help at all?Thanks Ted, it all helps. Incidentally mine is. ‘76 K2 and I also have the hollow tip cross drilled air screw in my carbs.
Post by: K2-K6 on March 15, 2025, 10:40:50 PM
Can I check the meaning of " fuel restriction against air supply“. Do you mean something is happening to make mixture too lean when throttle is in closed position ie in the idle circuit?I didn’t Ted as I have dual fuel lines from the fuel tap and I thought there wouldn’t be room. Maybe a poor decision!
If you wanted to do this temporarily even, you can buy more pipe and route down under the carbs, site the two filters there in clear space, then route back up to the carb inlets.
It could be a pragmatic workaround while you deal with getting residual unwanted bits out of the system.
All mechanical things being in order ..... it's "always" fuel restriction against air supply that gives this hanging effect.
Yes, exactly that.
The idle circuit, both air passage and it's paired jet act as, effectively, a tiny carburettor within the main carburettor. It gives these carb and engine the fine control necessary to have very smooth tickover and linear response as you modulate the speed at very low rpm.
The passages in tbat circuit are, by necessity, pretty small. Any impairment makes quite significant change in mixture as it's metering such tiny amounts of fuel at idle.
Ultimately any blocking of the fuel jet scuppers that fuel to air ratio that needs to be in place to work. And so, you get very annoying effects from just small or partial blocking.
I'd expect to see the fuel jets having debris in them here.
In essence if there's air going through the air control route (the screw you adjust and it's route into carburettor vehturi) but low or no fuel being drawn up from float bowl, then it'll run lean and not want to slow down sufficient to give stable rpm. They will, when set correctly, run slightly rich at no throttle idle point. Its only very small amounts of change we are considering here, frustrating nevertheless.
Post by: DomP on March 16, 2025, 08:18:31 AM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 16, 2025, 11:06:52 AM
So is that why I have a hanging idle yet also symptoms of running rich like sooty plugs and strong fuel smell? Sounding like another carb off jobI have exact same symptoms Dom
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 16, 2025, 11:40:30 AM
Is there any sign of wear on the main jets or needles?
Needles in the middle position(3).
My 069A carbs had needles with no middle poistion, all changed to original needles & jets courtesy of Ken.
Post by: Oddjob on March 16, 2025, 01:08:40 PM
As these bikes get older we don't know what's been done to them before we bought it, it may no longer have the same brassware it was made with, a lot of people tended to think they'd be better replacing it with stuff like Keysters etc thinking it was wearing etc, worst thing they could have done IMO. The next owner then has to suffer that mistake and a lot move the bike on because it's not running as it should and they don't know why.
Post by: DomP on March 16, 2025, 01:25:37 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on March 16, 2025, 04:27:33 PM
Something sounds wrong if it starts without choke.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 16, 2025, 05:09:27 PM
069a carbs are for a CB550F not a CB500K Ted, as I'm sure you know. a 500K made for the UK should be wearing 627B carbs. The 069a carbs have 4 slots on their needles and it runs at 2nd from top as standard IIRC, the problems here sound like flooding to me, if you can smell petrol there's something wrong. Flooding will cause it to run really rich, hence the black plugs, it's like the engine is running on fast idle setting on a car with auto choke.
As these bikes get older we don't know what's been done to them before we bought it, it may no longer have the same brassware it was made with, a lot of people tended to think they'd be better replacing it with stuff like Keysters etc thinking it was wearing etc, worst thing they could have done IMO. The next owner then has to suffer that mistake and a lot move the bike on because it's not running as it should and they don't know why.
All 4 carbs on my bike are stamped 087A - its a US import 1976 K2 CB550
Post by: Oddjob on March 16, 2025, 05:25:27 PM
Post by: Oddjob on March 16, 2025, 05:28:16 PM
Mines an F Ken on 069a carbs with all original jets etc (some bits supplied by you to replace damaged items) I've adjusted the floats to the specified 21mm? from memory, it will definitely start happily with no choke whatsoever even in cooler weather.
If it starts from cold with no choke that’s usually indicative of it running too rich Dom. Seem to recall it’s 22mm not 21 btw.
It could be aftermarket float needle and seats, renowned for not sealing properly.
Post by: DomP on March 16, 2025, 06:10:14 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 16, 2025, 06:17:52 PM
Yeah, different markets got different carbs, 087a sounds right for the states. You checked if it still has Keihin brass? They’ll be marked with a stylised K if they are.all brassware is kosher. I did swap out the main jets as they were mixed sizes - Julie let me have some original main jets in the right size. I have replacement slow jets also from Julie and in original Honda packaging. New Viton rubber throughout.
Post by: DomP on March 16, 2025, 07:58:00 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 17, 2025, 02:52:45 PM
The bike ran much better and I have just got back from a blast up and down the road - about 5 or 6 miles; flipping cold but very satisfying :-)
There is still a slight hang now and then but nothing like it was; the bike hesitates when pulling away from a standstill and needs quite a lot of revs. Its been years since I rode a 4 cylinder bike so partly the 'hesitation' might be that I am more used to big twins with low-end torque? The bike still smells as if it running rich.
All in all a pretty good mornings work though
Post by: JamesH on March 17, 2025, 04:17:53 PM
Post by: Oddjob on March 17, 2025, 05:51:08 PM
Good shout on the advancer James, always worth a check.
I'm not over keen on bench syncing carbs TBH, most times people set the gap too big and wonder why the bikes revving it's nuts off, hence why I asked if you had gauges, I prefer to set mine so as you just move the butterfly you can see a really small gap at the bottom on all 4 slides, you can then lift them all the same amount with the idle screw on the bank if required. With gauges you can get them spot on after fitting.
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 17, 2025, 09:42:39 PM
I have previously checked the advance mechanism and it was fine.
I set the carbs so that as you say the sliders are just opening-vacuum gauges should enable me to fine tune from there?
Post by: Oddjob on March 17, 2025, 11:09:27 PM
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on March 20, 2025, 09:08:54 PM
Another thing I noticed when starting the bike this morning was that when I turned the fuel tap on there was an audible release of air pressure. I also got this when I opened the fuel cap to check the fuel level in the tank. I have an aftermarket fuel cap from DS and when I checked the vent hole I found that a piece of cotton wool or similar was pushed into the little vent hole; presumably to prevent ingress of dirt. However, it was so tightly pushed in that it was preventing the air from getting in the tank so I removed it.
I don't seem to have any hanging issues now and the plugs which were super sooty are now a nice tan colour with no oil or soot.
The remaining issue is that the bike is not eager to pull away from standstill and needs more revs than I think it should. Im going to be investigating this next but if anyone has any pointers for this issue please point!
Post by: Bryanj on March 20, 2025, 11:24:41 PM