Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: DomP on August 03, 2024, 03:05:27 PM
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Soon I'll hopefully be arranging a respray on my tatty tank and side covers, I'd originally decided in my head on a grey/graphite with a greeny gold metallic if that makes sense but I can't find what I've got in my minds eye. More recently I wondered if I should go a bit brighter with more of a full on green, how does everyone else chose a colour when respraying? Will paint shops be able help me with colour swatches, I've only ever had colour matching done before so just left them to it.
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If you are not bothered about an original Honda colour Vauxhall made a metallic colour for the old HC Vivas called "Goodwood Green Starmist" they made a range of Starmist colours - pretty sure you can get them made up at a decent paint stockists.
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Soon I'll hopefully be arranging a respray on my tatty tank and side covers, I'd originally decided in my head on a grey/graphite with a greeny gold metallic if that makes sense but I can't find what I've got in my minds eye. More recently I wondered if I should go a bit brighter with more of a full on green, how does everyone else chose a colour when respraying? Will paint shops be able help me with colour swatches, I've only ever had colour matching done before so just left them to it.
Contact Julie,
I am 99% certain she can supply bushes
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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Soon I'll hopefully be arranging a respray on my tatty tank and side covers, I'd originally decided in my head on a grey/graphite with a greeny gold metallic if that makes sense but I can't find what I've got in my minds eye. More recently I wondered if I should go a bit brighter with more of a full on green, how does everyone else chose a colour when respraying? Will paint shops be able help me with colour swatches, I've only ever had colour matching done before so just left them to it.
Contact Julie,
I am 99% certain she can supply bushes
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
Ooops
As for colour, find a picture of an object, or vehicle they can source a paint code
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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If you are planning to do a rattle can paint job yourself RUST-OLEUM do some metallic greens, although it's American there are UK suppliers but not all colours available.
Rust-Oleum has a decent cover being chip reistant - easy to find options online.
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I thought I'd replied to this but it's not here so I must have had a glitch.
I've been looking around carparks for a while now John, I'm beginning to look like an opportunist car thief😀
I want a fuel resistant and a really good finish Ted si I think that rules out rustoleum......and me doing it!
*I've been thinking about this, I want a single colour so maybe not beyond my capabilities just that I'm concerned I won't get a durable and deep shine finish with rattle cans.
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FWIW Rust-Olem is petrol resistant - although they have a good nozzle you will probably not get the finish you desire. IIRC it works on all manner of materials so side panels would be good
Certainly in the car trade Greens were like Beige not a popular choice on new vehicles. I haven't seen a new car in metallic green for ages.
Be interesting to read what you choose and any comments - I am still reminded by a few members of my plan to paint the 500 frame in Nut Brown. In the end I saw sense so it's a boring mattish black.
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FWIW Rust-Olem is petrol resistant - although they have a good nozzle you will probably not get the finish you desire. IIRC it works on all manner of materials so side panels would be good
I doubt whether any 1k paint is truly E10 fuel resistant Ted. I bought some that was supposedly petrol resistant and it was sh*te
You really need 2k IMHO. Like this
https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/
Or if it's a solid colour then 2k aerosol by ProXL. something like : https://www.paints4u.com/Customer/ProductDetails/Index/11983
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I had to Google what 1k & 2k meant - is there a 2k clear lacquer that seals 1k or do you get a crozling / paint reaction?
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I had to Google what 1k & 2k meant - is there a 2k clear lacquer that seals 1k or do you get a crozling / paint reaction?
Most classics these days are painted in solvent base-coat (RS call it C.O.B.) and then clear coated in 2k clear-coat Ted. Modern vehicles are done in water-based paint and then clear coated in 2K.
I have clear coated COB from RS, cellulose, water-based, etc .. I just clear coated my friends CB160 tank which he had painted in some cheap and nasty rattle can (cellulose or acrylic ..think Autotek or similar) and never got a reaction .
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I do think I prefer a grey or gunmetal with a fancy metallic in it to give it a bit of wow factor.
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I do think I prefer a grey or gunmetal with a fancy metallic in it to give it a bit of wow factor.
Honda CD175A 1967-69 was a dark metallic. It is Honda code XE. They called it 'Black Metallic' but is really a dark grey.
RS Bikepaints call it Honda 'Lava Grey' (not to be confused with VAG Lava Grey).
RS stock it since I loaned them a NOS fork ear to check the shade ... which they lost .. GRRR >:(
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There is an interesting YouTube clip by Classic Octane about how to paint a petrol tank and side panels with rattle cans. As luck would have it the colour is a ,etallic green and it’s a CB550 tank. That is worth a watch just to get a feel as to whether you want to have a bash yourself or not. Once I have the dents pulled out on my tank I’m going to have a go. If you can’t find the link I can dig around and post it?
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Just watched that video Mike, for the relatively small outlay I think it's worth attempting if I can get my garage warm enough when I do it...might be into autumn as I've got a workshop to build. I'm not sure his mask was upto 2k spraying though, I've got a very similar one I use fitting kitchens that'll take 'chemical rated' filters but I thought 2k needed an air fed mask.
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Just watched that video Mike, for the relatively small outlay I think it's worth attempting if I can get my garage warm enough when I do it...might be into autumn as I've got a workshop to build. I'm not sure his mask was upto 2k spraying though, I've got a very similar one I use fitting kitchens that'll take 'chemical rated' filters but I thought 2k needed an air fed mask.
There is a disposable ( after quite a few hours of use) mask made by Gerson that sellers on eBay claim is 2k isocyanate safe ..it has carbon filters. I challenged one of the sellers that it is indeed safe for 2K and they backed off saying it isn't although people do use it when spraying outdoors. You really need an air-fed mask. Problem with that is you need a fairly large compressor and filtered air to run one. If you are going to use the Gerson type mask then I would try to clear coat outdoors on a calm, walm day. Don't worry too much about the old bit of tiny crap landing on the paint as to get a super finish you need to flat and polish anyway. Having said that you can get a really nice orange-peel free coat using the Spraymax 2k clear coat aerosols
https://www.alloypaints.com/gerson-2k-disposable-paint-spray-respirator-face-mask-medium-large-72-p.asp
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Ash, I would also argue the fact that 2k is not good in contact with the eyes and skin.
That is the reason I/they use full face mask even outside ;)
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Ash, I would also argue the fact that 2k is not good in contact with the eyes and skin.
That is the reason I/they use full face mask even outside ;)
I agree 100% Paul and I always use an air fed mask with 2k products. But there are lots of people who don't .. even pro's . It doesnt help though that sellers actually list masks like the Gerson as suitable for 2k and most YouTube videos that I watch ..there is no sign of an air-fed.
Last year I had a battle with ProXL over their 2K primer.. Their data sheet and every seller was listing as Iso free but the can said contains isocyanate. I called them and they were in total denial but then agreed the datasheet was wrong and they would change it. A month later it wasn't changed si I threatened them with the HSE, which prompted a rapid correction. But then the resellers didnt change their listing even when I alerted them ..one seller was quite abusive coming out with sh*t like "Bet you are fun at parties " but then I challenged them back telling them to not to come running to me if someone croaks due to an asthma attack from breathing the iso crap ..they then reluctantly changed the listing. But surely all of this stemmed from the complacency of ProXL. It's a UK based company ..bet the German stuff is properly labelled.
I am fun at parties BTW as long as I am talking Hondas with like minded Anoraks.
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Ash you are always fun, party or not!
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FWIW Rust-Olem is petrol resistant - although they have a good nozzle you will probably not get the finish you desire. IIRC it works on all manner of materials so side panels would be good
I doubt whether any 1k paint is truly E10 fuel resistant Ted. I bought some that was supposedly petrol resistant and it was sh*te
You really need 2k IMHO. Like this
https://www.spraymax.com/en/products/product/clear-coats-and-spot-blender/2k-clear-coat/
Or if it's a solid colour then 2k aerosol by ProXL. something like : https://www.paints4u.com/Customer/ProductDetails/Index/11983
I used the Spraymax lacquer on my recent brown spray to finish. Good lacquer transforms the finish and Spraymax is like glass (and that hard). It was to be candy garnet brown, but in the end preferred a dark candy copper brown.
Used a oil free compressor to feed me air for safety.
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Has anyone used CCR Custom Paints?
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I've just finished my paint work on the Laverda and the clear coat I have used is hmg nisocoat 2 which is a 2k clear non isocyanate and can do the job just as well from what the maker in Manchester tells me...it's mixed clear/hardener/thinners in 3/2/0.75 and dries hard in 24 hours at 20 degrees Celsius, fully cured in a week for polishing....
I'm told it's petrol proof when cured...
Only snag is you need a gun with a 1.4 to 1.8 nozzle
Hubert
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Thanks Hubert, I'm going down the budget route with rattle cans and 2k lacquer. If it's not the desired quality of finish I'll get it done professionally but doing it myself is an itch I need to scratch.
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Thanks Ash! I'm finally getting back around to looking at this, I'm getting quotes of £500-750 to do a one colour paint job which is more than I can afford right now so a DIY job is in the cards. Shame the summer is over as I'd do it outside under a gazebo. As I'm just doing the lacquer in 2k if I'm sensible with a Gerson mask would I be OK?
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Thanks Ash! I'm finally getting back around to looking at this, I'm getting quotes of £500-750 to do a one colour paint job which is more than I can afford right now so a DIY job is in the cards. Shame the summer is over as I'd do it outside under a gazebo. As I'm just doing the lacquer in 2k if I'm sensible with a Gerson mask would I be OK?
I wouldn't really like to say .. lots of people do it with a Gerson mask & painting outside. Problem is the isocyanate also gets into your skin and eyes too. Personally I always use my air-fed mask but I have to be mega careful, as my wife already suffers from asthma badly. You can get non-iso 2k clear .. I have never tried it but worth investigating. You would need to check on it's suitability for fuel resistance but RS Bikepaints claim it is. Not that I would get it from them ..bound to be somewhere a lot cheaper. I did hear that it takes a lot longer to cure than the iso stuff but that was ages ago
Ha ha ... RS had to state their supplier of 2k iso-free clerar coat lacquer in their Safety data sheet: https://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/datasheets.php
TECHNICO SURFACE COATINGS LIMITED UNIT 14 BLYTHE PARK, SANDON ROAD CRESSWELL, STOKE ON TRENT STAFFORDSHIRE. ST11 9RD. TEL: +44 (0)1782 397400 EMAIL : info@technicouk.com
https://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/motorcycle-product-details.php?productid=302
Application data here:- https://www.rsbikepaint.com/en-gb/datasheets/2klaqnoniso-instructions.pdf
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I was more meaning a rattle can job Ash, proper budget end of things. My tank has had the badge brackets filled over and has a few light dings with a rather crap respray so I wonder if I should strip it back to bare metal and see what wonders lie beneath.
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I was more meaning a rattle can job Ash, proper budget end of things. My tank has had the badge brackets filled over and has a few light dings with a rather crap respray so I wonder if I should strip it back to bare metal and see what wonders lie beneath.
Pretty sure I have seen that non-iso 2k clear in a can Dom .. will check.
Decent video here on masks:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSFlIpPoFKw
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I've done a basic magnet test on my tank as I suspected its got quite a bit of filler in it, sure enough it has some areas with far weaker magnetism, the question is do I just sand it back to get a key before painting it of bite the bullet and go back to bare metal and refill all areas?
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I wouldn't personally trust anyone else's filler .. I would strip it all and do it yourself ... then you know it's good and you don't waste all of your effort if it delaminates at some point.
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I agree with Ash. I would strip the paint off first then you will see the true extent of filler used.
Once stripper has been used to remove paint it can be absorbed into the filler surface with the potential for future paint reaction/bubling problems.
I've no recent experience of removing old filler, newer products might bond quite well to good metal. I did a spell in a bodyshop back in 1974/5 when the panel beaters/sprayers used molten lead as the filler. I did the sanding down afterwards to shape the curves of the panels. I found it rewarding doing the preparation and primer coat.
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Thanks Chaps. Molten lead, I've a feeling my tank would weigh a ton with that as a filler😀
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Plenty of non non-isocyanate hardener 2K lacquer about in aerosols. But have never used it. May give it a go next time. Have seen that it takes time to harden.
Example:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186495524537?
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I've stripped all the paint off and most of the old filler, the plan was to get it back to bare metal so I could guarantee there was no rust under the filler. I knew the badge clips had been filled over and badges just glued back on but I'm wondering if I just do the same? They are going to be a right pain to get all the filler out of and due to dents might not even work as badge holders anymore.
What should I do, fill back over and use double sided badge tape? I'm not going for concourse looks as is a cafe racer.
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Something like Paramose, methylene-chloride/formic acid paint stripper will soften it a bit Dom. Also if the tank is totally fuel free I have put a blowlamp on the area and the filler chars black and can then be picked out. The fixing 'strap' just has two holes and you need the little clips that mount the emblems in those holes.
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I've sanded back to the fixing clips, annoyingly one is dented back in so I may have ro resort to just filling them over. I'll still attempt to clean all the filler off though because I have found the odd bit of light rust under some areas.
Back to the liner, would thinners strip it? I've got 5ltrs of it kicking about.
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I've sanded back to the fixing clips, annoyingly one is dented back in so I may have ro resort to just filling them over. I'll still attempt to clean all the filler off though because I have found the odd bit of light rust under some areas.
Back to the liner, would thinners strip it? I've got 5ltrs of it kicking about.
I think it totally depends on the type of liner used Dom. Anything a few years old then thinners may work but the modern epoxy type liners it may not touch.
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It's a middle transparent brown kind of colour, I'll get a phorlto up see if anyone can identify it.
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If the tank isn't shedding it's lining or leaking is it worth trying to remove it as removing 100% might be difficult?
Just some remnants in the seams might cause trouble down the line it might cause issues with a new liner not bonding. It was probably lined for a reason.
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That's what I'm wondering Ted, I'm in half a mind to leave it as it is. I've had a result with the badge clips, chipping out all the filler has revealed them to be in perfect condition so I'm going to fill the dented area around them and get new badges.
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Happy with how these cleaned up considering they were filled filled in, there's still a bit of build-up behind the welded on plates that I need to drive out somehow and treat before I epoxy primer ir.