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Just recently done a cbx 550 so i can definitively tell you that if you do not want a leak the strainer pushes into the petcock then you fit the washer/O ring before fitting the assembly to the tank
Yup, reserve fuel still goes through the srainer on normal through the tubeso seal position means nothing.As to the tube staying in the tank and being flush---they all do that sir just sorta happens.
Regarding the clutch...It seemed to work fine three years ago when I rode it last, but now it's become extremely difficult to pull. I won't hazard a numerical guess about the actual force required, but it's not safe to ride in this condition. It can be fully pulled, and it does return on its own, albeit a bit sluggishly.Aside from the obvious possibility of a binding cable, what else could be the trouble?Might this be expected of a bike that's been sitting for a couple of years? In other words, should I be thinking about solving this problem before I try running it (whenever that turns out to be)? Or might it sort itself out with some oil circulation and exercise?
Almost certainly cable and as a hint DO NOT oil an original cable as the onner is rubber coated and the outer nylon lined, oil tends to "swell" both and make the cable tight. Aftermarket cables may dispense with one or both of the linings and be safe to oil but i dont comment on that!!
The filter fits inside the tank spigot, it's flared at the bottom end so it can't disappear inside the tank, it's a tight fit inside the spigot so no petrol can get to the fuel tap without going through the filter, the O-Ring just seals the inner collar on the tap against the bottom of the tank spigot, the large outer nut compresses it against the spigot so it seals and stops any leaking petrol. Most people tend to overtighten the outer nut which causes the O-Ring to expand, flatten out and get stuck in the threads of the outer nut. Hence why yours looks in pretty poor shape. Don't worry about the filter fitting inside the tap, so long as it fits inside the tank spigot it's doing it's job.
Looking at the clutch cable will the nipple on the end go through the hole in the screwed adjuster? Also give me length of outer cable and inner cable.
Looking at the clutch cable will the nipple on the end go through the hole in the screwed adjuster?
I will have a look at my box of assorted cables and let you know. As your cable is fubared i would clamp the end of the outer by yhe adjuster in a vice and use a spanner to turn the adjuster away from it with lost of WD
Dimensions...Inner cable length, ball-end to ball-end… 45 inchesOuter housing length, metal sleeve at handlebar to end of adjustment screw at clutch housing… 41-5/8 inchesAdjustment screw at clutch housing… 1-11/16 inchesThere’s also a protective sleeve around the outer housing, about 13-1/2 inches long, which starts about 17-1/2 inches from the metal sleeve of the outer housing at the handlebar
As you need to keep the adjuster and the cable is scrap a measure of mechanical violence is OK