Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Still wondering why you didn’t just buy a plastic right angled pipe connector Roo, you could just sand the end until it fitted the body, no one will ever see it with the pipe on. Always wondered why Honda failed to fit spring washers under the heads of the choke flap screws, if one of those come loose it’s going straight into the combustion chamber. Ok, so they peened the back of the screws a little when new but I’m willing to bet nobody does that when they get refitted, another thing, Mark Paris recommends cutting down any protruding part of the carb balancing adapter screws on the intake manifolds so that they don’t upset the airflow, so presumably the same thing could apply to the choke flaps screws, so I intend to replace the screws with stainless ones, fit a spring washer then file them flat on the reverse, whilst not mounted of course so that no chance of metal filings going into the carb bodies. Maybe I’m just going ott but then again maybe it will make a very small difference. Oh and Roo, Mark also says approx 5 psi in the forks and I think it was approx 10mm of preload. I’ll check that when I can find his notes on the 500.
Still wondering why you didn’t just buy a plastic right angled pipe connector Roo, you could just sand the end until it fitted the body, no one will ever see it with the pipe on. Always wondered why Honda failed to fit spring washers under the heads of the choke flap screws, if one of those come loose it’s going straight into the combustion chamber. Ok, so they peened the back of the screws a little when new but I’m willing to bet nobody does that when they get refitted, another thing, Mark Paris recommends cutting down any protruding part of the carb balancing adapter screws on the intake manifolds so that they don’t upset the airflow, so presumably the same thing could apply to the choke flaps screws, so I intend to replace the screws with stainless ones, fit a spring washer then file them flat on the reverse, whilst not mounted of course so that no chance of metal filings going into the carb bodies. Maybe I’m just going ott but then again maybe it will make a very small difference. I didnt Ken as being in the aquatics trade as a fishery manager and dealing with all things pumps,air lines and the like Ive heaps of expoerience with fittings and although didnt twig at he time until ypu mentioned it, I know that after time theose plastic fittings get brittle and are effected by heat after a while too so went belt and braces on the fittimg.I bought one that was toosmall to start then ordered a couple of options to file down to tap in. They'lllast longer and wont be as much of a potential fail. It would be just my luck to have em all sorted, fit them and then pull out the fitting and have to take the carbs off again to refit. Plus, I'll always know its there and it'll bug me.I wandered about the choke flap screws so dabbed a bit of loctite on them but to be fair, after plating them they are a particularly tight fit and I cant see them coming out but did have exactly that thought whilst putting them together.The rest of it may come in the post today back from the repairers and I'll have another go at finishing them off but for now, I'm off chub fishing for the afternoon, I havent managed to have any dangling all christmas and I want a session in before the end of the year. Even just to say Ive been and had a mooch about.Nice one on the fork cap PSI rating Ken, let me know.Did you have a chance to find me one of those brass screws to attach the actuator bar back onto these carbs Ken, you mentioned you had a few knocking about, is one still up for grabs?Oh and Roo, Mark also says approx 5 psi in the forks and I think it was approx 10mm of preload. I’ll check that when I can find his notes on the 500.
Bloody hell, Roo. That’s just ridiculous.
