550 F2 started!

[K2-K6]

Along the same thought lines, MTB brakes (quite a few of them) use oil for hydraulic system that's not corrosive. The seals are the only real change needed as DOT liquids and these are definitely not compatible with seals swelling badly in wrong application.

There's long history via Citroën system though with their LHM (liquid hydraulic mineral ) systems routinely used for both suspension and brakes. Many European original power steering system/pumps also mineral oil specific too. Easy to get oil for them.

[Laverdaroo]

Loving the HOPE stuff you mention, My pal always has it on hs down hill bikes he uses, always swears by them fo their ability to never go wtong. I just love the engineering.


While I'm on, could anybody recommend a shop that might want to work on my tan and get these dents out? Ive taken it to three different places and all have nung onto it, decided they dont want to do it and then not ring me. Just been to collect it for the third time anfd running oit of options really down here.

I really wan to take it to somewhere where they do this sort of thing rather than a body shop that deals with cars as they simply cant do it. I just want the dent out, the painter said he would nanny it up pre paint ans was under the impression that a slide hammerf and some tacked on rods th grip would be the way  forward but two places have said that they need to patch it or cut bits out!......................I dont bloody think so!

Any help gratefully logged and acted on if poss,

Thanks all.

[Laverdaroo]

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[K2-K6]

For the dent, have you tried a car dent repair specialist rather than bodyshop?  There's some good kit with those guys for getting/massaging dents out as they are aiming to do that without repaint if they can. Quite a few focused on lease car prep before handback as they get hammered for any condition problems at lease end.

I've seen them getting some very restricted dents out of door panels and rear wing sections with extremely limited access, usually they're mobile operators that may give you a look-see to assess.

[Laverdaroo]

I spoke and took it to a couple of local fells's who do that sort of thing as I thought it might be able to be pushed out rather than pulled but they shyed away from it. Including Dentmaster! One said it was too thick, I did mention rangerover panels are about as thick but he said he wasnt up for it........so be it, move on
If I cant find anybody I'll drill it and put some self tappers in  and pull it myself. Im sure they can be brased up afterwards to get it sealed again and just found a wicked chap in Brizzle that can brase like a pro so Icoud take it to him. A little bit dissapointing but there must be someone that does this sort of thing. Thought it prudent to ask on here, you never know, somebody might have had a good experience with someone tucked away up an ally or something somewhere.

Not that sort of experience up an ally, Phil!! (sesman)

[Sesman]

He, he…you anticipated that well Roo. A missed opportunity 😀

[Laverdaroo]

Got your number mate


How are the hooves, you Irish dancing and back at your Zumba classs yet?

[Sesman]

Still hobbling and doddering. Sat on the cat yesterday….very alarming.

[Oddjob]

Already got the slave cylinder I'm planning on using. It's a lot smaller than that pictured and already satin black, also found a longer pushrod as well in case I need to extend the current one. All I need to figure out is how to mount the slave cylinder, the bike it comes off uses a thick metal bracket hiding under the sprocket cover, it's adapting that to fit the 500 that's proving a problem, saying that until I get the engine round to my garage I don't really know how I'll do it. It may turn out to be incredibly easy in the end. I haven't worked out whether to use the existing 500 sprocket cover or use the 550 one that doesn't have the clutch push rod mechanism in it. The problem with the 550 one is getting the hydraulic line in without cutting a hole in the cover.

I'll find a spare sight glass and send it down after Xmas Roo, might get lost by or lovely PO the way they are at the moment.

[Laverdaroo]

In nomrush mate, thanks pal

[K2-K6]

Already got the slave cylinder I'm planning on using. It's a lot smaller than that pictured and already satin black, also found a longer pushrod as well in case I need to extend the current one. All I need to figure out is how to mount the slave cylinder, the bike it comes off uses a thick metal bracket hiding under the sprocket cover, it's adapting that to fit the 500 that's proving a problem, saying that until I get the engine round to my garage I don't really know how I'll do it. It may turn out to be incredibly easy in the end. I haven't worked out whether to use the existing 500 sprocket cover or use the 550 one that doesn't have the clutch push rod mechanism in it. The problem with the 550 one is getting the hydraulic line in without cutting a hole in the cover.

I was thinking more along the lines of using a hope piston and seal kit only, then getting a simple cylinder turned out of billet alloy that would sit into the original Honda casting (where the clutch lifter sits) with the hose going out through the original cable hole. It would just be a concentric cylinder, maybe a tab to stop it turning, that would replace original cable lift mech and you wouldn't know it's there.

[Oddjob]

You'd still have the problem of where the banjo hole would be, it needs to be behind the piston and that puts it either on the outside of the casing or a compromise somewhere on the inside. TBH until I try a test fit on a 500 sprocket carrier it's academic, it's all in my head ATM and like most of my ideas they constantly get updated and evolve. My idea at the moment is to either mount the slave on the steel plate it's originally mounted on and adapt the plate to fit OR it's mounted on the casing with the upper part visible and the line and banjo coming through the casing rather than running down the outside of the casing. My slave cylinder is very small, not a lot wider than the standard hole in the 500 casing.

[Laverdaroo]

Keep going fella’s, I’m enjoying this……..


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[K2-K6]

Interesting if you could fit a drop-in solution to convert that other's may find attractive too.

Hope items to be clear, I've used those as impetus as you can usually buy replacement piston and seal kits that could be useful and from 14mm up to about 25mm in different bore sizes that could impact design. 
They use fluid entrypoint close to face of piston (brake pad location) with a diagonal drilling that passes to rear of a blind bore chamber rather than being restricted to entry at any particular point, this may facilitate hydraulic through original cable route with no modifications as they also go into the caliper with banjo or straight thread coupling. So it's the design detail that looks interesting.

Hope are recognised for the ease of spares supply and should make it easy to use any component if suitable. 

Roo, we currently have a few different types on DH bikes, like these monobloc six titanium piston calipers

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For those that haven't seen them, or their scale, they'll fit into the palm of your hand easily. Beautifully made and designed.

[Oddjob]

Just a thought Roo but if you removed the lever arrangement inside the clutch cover of a 550 I wonder if you could fit a small hydraulic slave cylinder on the outside, the metal I think is thick enough to stand the pressure, so the little bar end thing goes inside the slave cylinder, like the end of the push rod did on the 500 and pushes straight down instead of the cranked arrangement it currently is. That's if you fancy an hydraulic clutch of course. The 550 isn't renowned for having a heavy clutch but the lighter the clutch action is the better as we get older. You'd need to leave the cable lever in place or fit a blanking plug.

I've got a spare lower part of the L/H switchgear which I've ground off the cable and lever bracket, so as to accommodate the clutch master cylinder, that's if I get solve the problem of course. The MC already has a mirror mount on it so that's another bonus as it sits the mirrors higher so you avoid the elbow view. Also has a starter switch. Both my MCs are apart ATM as they'll be ceramic coated in satin black. Hence why I bought spare sight windows, plus they are a matching pair so another bonus. I do have a spare clutch MC if you ever need one to match the brake MC.