550 F2 started!

[Oddjob]

I’m replacing mine with stainless steel studs Roo, the trouble with using mild steel in that location is the heat burns off the zinc plating, they go rusty as a result. Corrosion sets in, especially in the part covered by the exhaust flange, the threads left exposed by the nut rust for fun as well, you go to remove them a few years later and the nut binds on the rusty thread, you use for force and it refuses to move but the force is now transferred to the part left in the head, that also doesn’t want to move as it’s rusted in place, this means the centre of the stud starts to twist, as it’s already weakened by the rust it breaks off, if you’re lucky it leaves enough for you to grip, if you’re unlucky it snaps flush with the head.

Use stainless and pair those with deep domed nuts like the ones on your vfr750. Just bought 8 6mm deep flanged domed nuts for when I do mine.

[Laverdaroo]

I think I will bud, can’t be doing all this bloody cleaning and polishing for the sodding thing to go rusty

Have you a supplier sorted out yet for them? Saves me looking and all that

I have news te starter clutch but just got in and shagged out so off for a Kip, I’ll catch yer tmrw


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[Sesman]

C’mon, Roo. We are waiting for starter news…is it fooked?

[Oddjob]

I bought these Roo, exhaust and inlet.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254206786071?hash=item3b2fe7ba17:g:ORgAAOSw9rthReyM&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8NuvCEsH9U5nDnF8VxjEQDvfQibV5IT43%2FuFKvA5JY5aBG0XdkQHfcpKA8v5TlDDjwrqWxxIAoznKuA8EDVn%2Fa7wkcEyc2cs4yTuxXNMzMitQQmEeKfzl1x%2FZnhZe2QHiP7mBs1JR7ZYO4g9ua%2FOMbQ8lI7NOB1YPwo4tnEVJqUFlVXc1%2F7tDIWUXj%2BFdBKQc%2Bj9ABRxWALVDMaOV8jJdXL80HZUDFrDza4RP95tsv%2BMly%2FNm01kFmLkqvy%2BsNM%2BwZOHKIDWz%2BYSCWJtLciQQ21fiqlN4hDUbC053UHEH%2FGphKcm7W%2Fanub5XDkylMN%2Bvg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8jdhc3gYQ

You may have to ask Trev about the inlet ones if you're interested, he does do them though.

Nuts from here.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234896491875

I don't intend to use a flat or spring washer under them, the modern bikes don't use them and they don't seem to lose them so I'll go that way as well. Unless the stud is too long for the nut in which case I'll bung a spring washer underneath.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Removing exhaust studs from the cylinder head - that is something I would avoid if the steel studs are okay - call me chicken but it's a recipe for snapped studs IMHO. 

[Sesman]

I understand your caution, Ted. Strangely enough after degreasing and painting the head I bobbed it in the oven at 200 degc for 90mins and the studs wound straight out. I double nutted the studs before baking.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I understand your caution, Ted. Strangely enough after degreasing and painting the head I bobbed it in the oven at 200 degc for 90mins and the studs wound straight out. I double nutted the studs before baking.

Did you have to wear Oven Gloves or did you remove them when it had cooled down?

[Oddjob]

Removing exhaust studs from the cylinder head - that is something I would avoid if the steel studs are okay - call me chicken but it's a recipe for snapped studs IMHO.

Precisely my point Ted, do it now before they corrode to the point where they break when you don't want them to, at least you stand a chance when they still have some strength left.

Plenty of heat and a good extractor and you should be fine. A lot of studs actually come out with the nut as the threads behind the nut are so corroded they act as a double nut.

[Sesman]

Hot, Ted. I had the work bench ready to accept the head and clamped it. Thought I’d double up on the oven time after painting. A bit risky, but saved me 10bob in leccy 😁

[Sesman]

Did burn my forearm on the bloody wire support thing, though.🔥🥲

[Oddjob]

I had a full engine melted once, way back in the 70s. I wanted to have it stove enameled satin black to match the 750F engine which I thought looked mint in black. So I stripped it all down and assembled it bare cased so I could have it done, dropped it off and waited for them to ring me to say it was ready. 2 weeks later I got a phone call to say they'd had a fire and my engine had melted. It was only many years later I found out it was arson and an insurance con, I didn't get paid a penny for my loss, there was a Laverda Jota engine right next to it that was also melted. Went to pick up the engine and the bottom half was just a bit blob of alloy, only the head survived. The heat was so intense the newly installed valve guides had risen out of the head by about 15mm, no springs on them and the engine was upright so how they rose up is beyond me. I never used that head again and in fact it was left at Crich a few years ago when I went to the bike meet there. Couldn't be bothered bringing it home. Just shows you what heat can do.

[Laverdaroo]

Starter clutch update.................


Right, well, after a fraught week where my gob has reduced fettling time due to the flock of woodpeckers in my head with Hilti guns, I havent got as much done as I wanted but never the less progress has been made in the 'Shed of Dreams'.

I've sorted the 'parp' via the dry bearing on the starter and that now runs beautifully and I've not managed to replicate the noises it was making before which I bored you all with earlier, so thats sorted. Now the question of the the starter clutch still being engaged once the engine had started, this would mean the starter motor would be spinning at the same speed as the engine once in use and so potentially a ticking time bomb next to my left foot.
My Primary chain is brand new and is pretty taught so trying to get at it from underneath the bike meant that without splitting the cases, would have been virtually impossible to get out so I havent gone to that degree yet although I dropped the oil and had the bike virtually lying flat on its side with the sump off to inspect and see if theres anything to see, waggle etc., Also going through my pictures from assembly I noticed that all the bits that need to be there are in fact all there in th eright place so I have no issues with assembly so I cancelled that off the list. After finding nothing visual and finding nothing, moving where it shouldnt, rocking or catching or rubbing I put the sump back on and refilled the oil but this time removed the starter and kicked the bike over to view through the hole that the starter goes in to see if the idler spins. when the engine is running...................it doesnt..................get in!    (firework emoji)
It free wheels and although turns with the engine if I poke a plastic wedge in there the idler stops dead and can be pushed the other way indicating its doing what it should and all is well so I have no issue so that's avoided a strip down although its something to keep an ear out for now that its reared its head and I will keep an eye open and an ear in that direction once I get it running right and moving a bit later down the line.

Had the primary had a bit of wear on it I may have been able to get it out but thankfully it can stay put as I didnt relish that job IIH!

A bit of good news which makes a change. 

I'm not doing Honda stuff today, my mate up the road has a really nice Yamaha DT125 YPVS that he's had from new which he wants to sell so wants it checking over before he advertises it. Today is going to be a nice change and playing with a two stroke for a bit. We aways referred to them as a "Death Trap 125" but they are a hoot and one of the easiest bikes to wheelie.........ever , just a shame this one is a nasty white and pink one...eeessshhh!    Why would you buy a pink bike??? FFS!

So after the worry that the engine may have to come out, thankfully thats not the case and I can relax a bit, but only for a bit


Top news though!

I have however, finished and had welded the bracket for the end can. Due to it's size and shape theres not many places to attach it to so have to make the best of a bad do and although these arent the bolts that will stay on it Theyre just there until I can get some  new stainless ones ordered. Theyre fine, just allen heads and the only ones on the bike and I'd prefer dome heads or something similar to the rest so I'll invetsigate that.

£4 peice of ally form the kitchen fab place down the road and a bout 5 hours fiddling time, plus a drink for the welder at the tractor place down the road and the whole thing stands me at about £18 and a fist full of Neproxin pain killers. I did about 6 different templates but decided this wold be the better fit and the least fussy so went with that. Needs a polish but doesnt look too bad. I appreciate it wont be everyones cup of tea but it suits the bike and should add to the look once done.

Cheers for the heads up on the stainless Ken, I've ordered those. I had some stainless dome head nuts here so they can go on, dont know why I didnt fit them anyway, think I forgot I had them. They should be coming later in the week so I can cross that off the list now too.

Although far from my best week, things are still creeping on by and getting sorted, just got to get the running right now and I might have a bike.

cheers for all the help with th estarer issue and the advice, info etc. Top drills fellas, cheers

[Laverdaroo]

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[Sesman]

Good news on the starter, Roo. Bracket looks mighty fine.👍

[Laverdaroo]

Hate drilling frames, especially when they've just been powdercoated! Measure 50 times and drill once!
Bit of a buger as the can is conical, the footpeg stay is striaght but the bottom part that connects the bracket to the frame is also pitched 7mm from front, upwards to the back. The angles involved were a bit bonkers as there wasnt a straight edge to start from as a datum and I could have dont it an easier way no doubt but it was a good thinking excersice and a welcome distraction. I had bits of tape, sliding bevels, alsorts strapped to it so I could get it cock on. Quite happy with it though, going to get back on it tonight and try to make it a bit more presentable.

Releived is and understatement Phil re the starer clutch