Try our new info resource - "Aladdin's Cave" (Main menu)Just added a separate link to Ash's Dropbox thread (shortcut)
Unsure if I've got the understanding of that correct.The twistgrip must have some degree of slack when setup properly, this to avoid the throttle being pulled when you turn the steering left & right. Too tight and the throttle will open as you go from centre to full turn, also it'll likely pull the nipple off the end of the cable without a certain amount of space to operate. These are specified in the manual.
"Jam a drill bit in there" is not what you do, you use the parallel shank part of a small drill bit as a feeler gauge
Are all the exhaust headers the same temperature, ie, equally bloody hot when you've been riding?
Trouble with the manual is that it virtually tells you nothing. They don't appear to think anyone would ever take them apart. Couple of pointers if you don't object.You'll find Honda fitted screws that are in fact too short for the drilling, the carb tops are a perfect example. Most of the thread is left unused and corrosion of that thread left unused mean if you attempt to fit a longer screw if starts to grab and then strip away the thread. Clean the threads with a tap, measure how much thread is left unused and fit a longer screw, that why a lot of them strip out, they are only really gripping on a few threads. IIRC, the top screws are 16mm and you need 20mm, the float bowl screws are the same, look at the pic and you'll see the screws don't reach the top of the thread, the pressure of the spring washer tends to strip these threads out as only a few are getting used. If in doubt, fit longer screws and trim to suit the position. Don't have threads of the screw exposed as they corrode and when you try and remove them it can strip out the threads as it passes down them. Go for a flush finish.No objection Ken,Learnt a long time ago about Hondas plasticine screws, so all my screws bolts etc are stainless steel replacements, usually but not always hexagon headed cap screws. Again from experience I always use a tap to clean up the threads so I don’t get caught out with stripped threads.. Just got my BZP kit from Gateros so all the rusty bits you did see will be brought back to original look, a new venture for me but I enjoy doing something that poses a challenge.😀👍
Ran the bike today and it all seems great, put the vacuum gauge on the carbs when I got home and I get this; (Attachment Link) #3 does show 10-15cmHg when I blip the throttle but otherwise, adjusting that slide just increases or decreases all the others by variable amounts. Plugs are new, air flow upto the carbs is sealed so it could be a leak on the other side (the boots?). I did swap the vacuum tubes over to make sure that #3 tube and the carb tune wasn’t faulty. If it wasn’t for the vacuum gauge I just wouldn’t have known anything was wrong as the running response and idle seemed good. Well to my untrained mechanical brain anyway.
One persons running well isn't always an accurate description unless you know exactly how it should feel.Ted ran his 400 on 2 cylinders and even though he said it seemed to lack power he didn't spot it was only running on 2. Sorry Ted for bringing that back up but it's a good example.