Clutch plates

[Pauarc]

Should you soak new clutch before you install them

[Johnwebley]

It's reccomended

Sent from my SM-A750FN using Tapatalk

[Pauarc]

I have now fitted new EBC clutch plates (ck1133). I have also checked steel plates for Warpage (I lay them on a sheet of glass) no Warpage I could measure with a feeler gauge. Also have put putoline S4 mineral oil 10w40 in bike.The clutch still drags I have adjusted bolt in then out 1/4 turn 25 mm free play on leaver I have even tried adjusting bolt with no slack clutch plates seem to be sticking together any ideas

[K2-K6]

There's not that much margin to lift the plates clear on them, every little bit counts in reality.

Suggest a set routine to put everything toward maximum lift to see what you get;- disconnect cable first, turn centre adjust screw all the way in to feel it touch down on the lift mechanism, then back out just a fag paper amount to only just "untouch" it if that makes sense.

That should have the operating arm at about 7/8 o'clock point without the cable connected to it.

Now fit cable and set slack at lever to 10mm at lever end, check that you can feel no tension in cable when released to make sure it's not now holding the operating mech in contact with plates.

Try it now to see what it does.

If the clutch heats up during use, then the thrust bearing moves away from the mechanism (you get more slack in the lever) so that's not a risk.
If, when, the plates wear though it will move clutch pack closer to mechanism and may eventually slip if not checked periodically through bedding new plates in.
In other words, if this is successful, go back and check again mech clearance with that centre screw in reasonable mileage to avoid it being just a little too tight.

[Pauarc]

I will try that at weekend I have tried it in different ways but will have a go that way

[Pauarc]

Just a thought could it be the oil any suggestions on that

[K2-K6]

Just a thought could it be the oil any suggestions on that

Difficult to answer, and of course there are many opinions too 

The oil is, in an ideal world, trying to cling to components, but the clutch is designed to get it out of the way. As the clutch closes it's designed to squeegee the oil out from the friction area via the various slots in the fibre plates and with centrifugal dispersion to evacuate the oil and take torque drive through it.
When you open it with lever the oil will obviously go back in again, if oil is cold then the viscosity will increase the drag on the plates, one to another. Worth checking if there's a difference stone cold in comparison to up to temp/hot running.
If different, you could attribute that to viscosity change, but not much you can do about it. It would give you a reason partly though. A thinner oil could be used potentially, they are designed to run 30 viscosity hot from their tolerancing, in purest design terms.  When contemporary though, my experience was to run them on 20/50 as using it pretty hard, also big que into race meetings they'd get very hot. That's allowable in Honda specs too, but didn't give any memorable problems in regard to clutch operation. 

The method I've given above should give the absolute maximum lift attainable within the components used. It'll be a worthwhile benchmark to at least see what you think of it then.
Interesting to hear if that method gives you anything in the way of measurable improvements.

[Trigger]

Do you have a double steel plate in the stack ?

[Pauarc]

I have no double steel plate what would this do

[Trigger]

It was an upgrade that was fitted to all K6's. Maybe you don't have a K6 clutch and it is from another 750 ?
Is your clutch fitted with the correct springs ? Two types of springs used on the 750K 

[Trigger]

Do you have your inner and outer located correctly. It should fit together like this


[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Trigger]

If it is fitted a quarter of a turn, then it is wrong as per picture


[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Trigger]

And your last plate has wider tabs than the rest of the plates and this is a picture of the last friction plate.



[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[Pauarc]

My bike is a Honda CB750k2 1975 all straight plates

[Pauarc]

This was before I fitted new chork plates