500 alternator stator screws - five out of six are solid.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

At some point I need to shine up the left side alternator cover/housing - clearly makes sense to remove the alternator stator for the polishing job - only one screw has come out so far.

Presently soaking stuff with penetrating oil - might need to get my young friend Marco to see if he can shift them - he talks about cutting a cross with his Dremel tool the using a screw driver that you can put a spanner on.

The three inner JIS heads have had some straight impact with a big Honda T Bar - that shifted one - drilling out does not look like an option as the screw shaft  is not accessible. Outer three might be okay to drill the heads out as a last resort.

Is there a way that works in my limited tool workshop?

.alternator housing by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Johnwebley]

Ted,Why,

Your shining the exterior surface,

Do it with care,maybe mask the internal parts

If it works, don't disturb

It seems like you could be heading for needless trouble

That is my humble opinion

Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

[Matt_Harrington]

What about trying a mini hammer impact driver? (small version of the original type) like this: https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/en/mini-impact-driver-set-7-piece-chromed-10002580?partner=googlesea-uk&cpkey=jqz0L3SMyo-B8GYqQ8TL7fx8sYHObdEBxBpU2KX4nJHuziyMJdQLYNIAT7aU63MyWsaRKGiZkPovzza5G4iTuA%7E%7E&gclid=CjwKCAjw2K6lBhBXEiwA5RjtCXgLNumA4X71e0KiwNZeNHQ7sk-TTRB5xvIedCji1xtnZWZu7dyIrhoC3x4QAvD_BwE&filter_article_number=10002580

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

That is a good shout idea John, I could tape up the wiring and fit a thick cardboard backing using the case bolt holes - I could cope with the weight whilst using the buffing wheel.

When I worked on my 400 all but one bolt came out easily so have been headed down the same route - the last one I used a small chisel tool & fitted new screws.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

What about trying a mini hammer impact driver? (small version of the original type) like this: https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/en/mini-impact-driver-set-7-piece-chromed-10002580?partner=googlesea-uk&cpkey=jqz0L3SMyo-B8GYqQ8TL7fx8sYHObdEBxBpU2KX4nJHuziyMJdQLYNIAT7aU63MyWsaRKGiZkPovzza5G4iTuA%7E%7E&gclid=CjwKCAjw2K6lBhBXEiwA5RjtCXgLNumA4X71e0KiwNZeNHQ7sk-TTRB5xvIedCji1xtnZWZu7dyIrhoC3x4QAvD_BwE&filter_article_number=10002580

I'm going to own up Matt - I have a similar tool that I bought decades ago but for the life of me I can't remember how to use it - my grip is now weak so holding the body to stop it rotating is challenging - especially when not wanting to strike my hand with the lump hammer -  the way to change it's direction by pressing the end of the tool and rotating the tool outer body works but the L<-->R positions have no reference point so I am never sure if I am impact tightening or loosening!

Might be worth me looking for/at U-tube tutorial on the Draper B2500 I have the right size JIS tip PH3.

.Draper Impact Tool by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Trigger]

PH3 is Phillip's, not JIS 

[andy120t]

I have that tool...it's very unclear which way is which, but if you use it on a fastener that isn't tight, and just give it a little tap, then you can see which way it turns it for the L or R setting.

Nb - do you need to remove the windings to polish the case? If it ain't broke etc...

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

All my JIS tools are also marked with a PH number as well - all academic now as I have undone the lot.

Following Matt's idea I read some online instructions - put my Big Boy work gloves on - found my second biggest lump hammer then gave the outer screws some serious percussion - all came loose in under two minutes.

As I was undoing the inside screws my tool fell apart - I found the balls & cups put it back together re-fitting the circlip - last two came undone but not before the tool came apart again. Needs a new circlip I guess.

I'm now knackered - enough for today - time for a beer!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I have that tool...it's very unclear which way is which, but if you use it on a fastener that isn't tight, and just give it a little tap, then you can see which way it turns it for the L or R setting.

Nb - do you need to remove the windings to polish the case? If it ain't broke etc...

I have a certain penchant for stripping down completely - it's one of my many faults - often leading to more earth in the money pit.
.

[Trigger]

All my JIS tools are also marked with a PH number as well - all academic now as I have undone the lot.

Following Matt's idea I read some online instructions - put my Big Boy work gloves on - found my second biggest lump hammer then gave the outer screws some serious percussion - all came loose in under two minutes.

As I was undoing the inside screws my tool fell apart - I found the balls & cups put it back together re-fitting the circlip - last two came undone but not before the tool came apart again. Needs a new circlip I guess.

I'm now knackered - enough for today - time for a beer!

That is because you have been sold something as JIS when it is just Phillips . PH stands for Phillips. All JIS are P1, P2, P3 

[Oddjob]

Always better to tackle the problem now Ted rather than wait until it really becomes a problem. It would also be easy to damage the windings accidentally if you'd left it in to polish, the weight would have made polishing it harder IMO. When inserting the drive bit twist the tool to preload the bit so when you hit it the drive will move immediately.

You can buy JIS bits to fit that impact driver.

[Matt_Harrington]

Ah ha! Ted, for some reason, I thought the bigger of the impact tools may not have fitted hence the idea of using a smaller 'mini' one. I've had to use mine in quite a few places on the old 400/4 engine. A cheap tool with good effects! Glad it's all worked out...

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Always better to tackle the problem now Ted rather than wait until it really becomes a problem. It would also be easy to damage the windings accidentally if you'd left it in to polish, the weight would have made polishing it harder IMO. When inserting the drive bit twist the tool to preload the bit so when you hit it the drive will move immediately.

You can buy JIS bits to fit that impact driver.

I have a JIS bit but it also says PH3 after the JIS markings - Grahame thinks it's not pucka JIS size- matters not as they are all out.

I have dismantled the Impact Driver - filled the slots with grease - all back together with a nice new SS circlip - it was when I twisted to preload that it seemed to fall apart on me - the external circlip seems to fit better than the original snap ring type if that is the right word.

I did wonder if -  could fit a normal SS bolt & washer  for the inner three JIS screws?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

PH3 is Phillip's, not JIS 

This is how many seem to be listed:-

4PCS JIS ( JAPANESE INDUSTRY STANDARD ) MAGNETIC SCREWDRIVER SET
SPECIFICATIONS :
SIZES : PH1 - PH2 - PH2 - PH3
..
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/10583/phillips-vs-jis-vs-pozidriv/
.

The above link says it all - a long detailed - often confusing article I was drawn to Para 4 reproduced below.
Quote
4. How can I find a good Phillips/JIS screwdriver?
After a brief Pozidriv/Supadriv digression, how does one find a good screwdriver for Phillips and/or JIS screws? In Chapter 3.2. I explained how JIS was discontinued as a standard in 2008, so now there is only ISO 8764. In other words: almost no manufacturers today make and sell screwdrivers noted as “JIS”, only “Phillips, ISO 8764-1, 2”. Some might (also) mention “DIN 5260-PH”, but no “JIS”.

Then how can you tell if a Phillips is one that works well with JIS screws and doesn’t easily slip out of Phillips screws?

It still boils down to trial and error. I intend to run this article with local tool companies and suppliers to see if they have a more universal solution. Until then, I can only recommend what I have personally tested and a few other ones recommended by many mechanics (but I haven’t tested personally):

[Trigger]

Don't believe everything you read. Vessel still make JIS screwdrivers