Carb kits

[Woodside]

Just picked up a 400 four
10 k miles
And stood for 20 years
It more than likely needs carbs rebuilt.....
Anyone used the silvers kits or are there better ones or complete sets (for 4 carbs ) available so as to not to have to order 4 kits
Thanks

[Trigger]

Shouldn't need a carb kit at that mileage just, a bloody good clean. 

[Woodside]

I did think that
They are pissing out fuel but hopefully its just sticky floats and or o rings...
Gonna look this weekend
Trigger did you get my pm about bars

[Trigger]

Yes, i did answer on the post.
I got a 19,000 mile one a couple of weeks ago. It was pissing fuel but, after a good clean, some o'rings from the Dutch guy (Not CMS) and set the floats it run like a dream ( NOT a super dream)

[Woodside]

Hi. I did see the reply thanks...i wasn't signed up to receive the replys....am now
I saw the Dutch guy seems very reasonable
What's his delivery time like?

[Trigger]

The Dutch carb guru will deliver in 2-3 working days. His goods are top quality and not pull your pants down price.

[Woodside]

Great I'll order some right now cheers

[Trigger]

I would wait until you know that the leaf springs are OK. Or you maybe doing a double order.

[Woodside]

Yeah I did hold off...gonna look this weekend

[Orcade-Ian]

Hi Folks,
At the risk of hi-jacking this thread, has anyone had 'issues' with keyster float valve/seats?  The reason I ask is that my 350/4 is playing up.  A while since I used it after I restored it, but I have replaced the fuel tap seal (the 4 hole one for stop/reserve/on) I've ultrasonic cleaned the whole bank and replaced the needle valve/seats on all 4 and set the float height to 24mm with a home made gauge.  No difference - the tap still passes a bit of fuel when off and random carbs leak fuel from the overflows - upredictable which one, but all 4 have done it at some time.  Runs OK at tickover and pulls well unless you snap open the grip at 50mph in top, when it bogs down slightly before pulling to the redline - not the best way to treat a humble 350 anyway.
The leakage means that you dare not leave it without clamping the pipe and if you do leave it, it's obviously rich as hell on startup until the level drops back.
I'm thinking of asking Basil Fawlty to come round to beat it with his big tree branch!
Any other ideas?
Ian

[Lobo]

Hi Orcadian,

I rebuilt a bank of 400F & a set of 750K2 carbs last year using Keyster, who tbh, get a very poor write-up. I have also read though, that recently they've upped their game .... and the new kits are fine.

And this is my experience - both bikes are 100%. Interestingly both overflowed significantly after the rebuild - sorted with a mild wallop with a wrapped screwdriver, and then only one carb typically overflowed for a short while after .... I had to be very meticulous about switching off the tap. But within a few days both bikes settled down & all is now drip free - fuel tap on or off.

Your fuel tap - either way - need sorting. Were you meticulously clean about the carb rebuild... and significantly did you polish the float mating faces & pins.... as stiction here could give you these problems.

(I ultrasonically cleaned my carbs with a unit off ebay... cannot, in any way, say I was impressed. I ended up using wooden splinters to clear galley ways, compressed air, elbow grease etc etc. Suspect professional ultrasonic cleaning might be fine.. but cheapo ebay units defo not)

Simon

[Orcade-Ian]

Hi Simon,
My Ultrasonic unit is more of an industrial unit (almost £300!!) - I can get the whole bank in the tank in one lump and I use a Bilt Hamber fluid diluted - the results are stunning.
I checked the floats for ease of movement, but didn't polish the pins and float mating services, so that's the first place to start.  As for the tap, there are no NOS ones about and lever with the face which bears against the rubber seal is also unavailable.  I lightly re-faced that tap face, which was very good anyway - no difference.  I then turned a thin shim on the lathe to further compress the seal - still dribbled enough to compromise the float valves overnight.  Surprising that yours leaked after re-build, then settled down - perhaps I might be lucky after the next strip/polish etc.
The fact that the bike ticks over smoothly at all times (except after increased fuel level in the chamber/s) is some encouragement - they are the smallest passages.

Regards,
Ian

[AshimotoK0]

Used Bilt Hamber Deox-C to remove inner slight corrosion on a rear 750 chrome fender (mudguard) absolutely fantastic job. Bunged a rare CB250k one in there and went on holiday and forgot about it. All of the chrome started to peel off!  I think its got Oxalic Acid in it as it turns green after use and that's the iron oxalate forming. The MDS doesn't give much away other than it's an Australian product and not really from Essex. Oxalic acid mega cheap on eBay as Wood bleach but it's poisonous (in rhubarb leaves).

http://www.bilthamber.com/

Cheers .. Ash  ...  Didn't know BH did ultrasonic additives.

[AshimotoK0]

Ian ... I can't find the Bilt-Hamber ultrasonic cleaner additive.
What's their product name please?

Cheers ... AshD

[Orcade-Ian]

Hi Ash,
It's the Surfex HD cleaner I used at (80 deg C) for around 45 mins.  The timer on my unit only goes to 30 mins which allowed me to have a look at that point and punch in another 15.
They don't come out like new, ie still some tarnishing here and there, but ALL of the crap is gone and after sorting out my petrol tap it runs like it should.  They dry almost instantly on removal and then I spray them with Wurth HHS2000 and wipe off.
When I contacted Pete Hamber to ask if they had a specific carb cleaner, they don't, as the chemicals necessary are not to his liking.  He recommended Surfex and even at 5% with water it does the job.  I didn't want to send 'difficult to replace' parts away for cleaning and like to be in control of my resto jobs

Regards,
Ian.