Author Topic: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?  (Read 3823 times)

Offline JustcallmeMrT

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Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« on: January 22, 2015, 10:15:32 AM »
Hi all, wondering what kind of anti-sieze you use for pairing aluminium parts with stainless hardware?  I've read that copper grease can increase the corrosion with this combo of metals, and not sure what to use instead?  I've seen lithium grease, silver grease, etc.  What would you recommend?

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2015, 11:00:57 AM »
Better answers may come up, I now prefer lithium grease to copper grease appart from hot bits like exhausts.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline royhall

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #2 on: January 22, 2015, 01:31:17 PM »
Have always used copper grease (10 plus years) and so far don't know of any problems with it. However I have sold most of the bikes I used it on, so some poor sod somewhere may be pulling apart a corroded wreck and cursing the PO. :o
Current bikes:
TriBsa CCM 350 Twin
Honda CB350F in Candy Bacchus Olive
Honda CB750F2 in Candy Apple Red
Triumph Trident 660 in Black/White
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Honda CB450K0 Black Bomber
Honda CB750K5 in Planet Blue Metallic (Current Project)

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #3 on: January 22, 2015, 02:03:25 PM »
I have had the copper grease in stainless / alloy issue, but only once, it may be the copper grease had washed out. But bear in mind the bike in question was used all winter, in snow 6 inches deep etc, sidecar fitted to stop it falling over, ie it took extreme punishment by most folks standards well coated in the filth of country roads with animal dung etc to make it interesting, probably I only washed it down two or 3 times a week as I was working a log of hours. In normal use I would not expect a problem. The trail bike place I sometimes work at use silkolene waterproof grease rather than copper slip except exhaust threads, their bikes generally seem to come appart easy enough for maintenance, though I have had to bring out the gas torch for the rear swing arm + engine bolt on the drz400s which had not been treated to this grease from new.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline Trigger

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #4 on: January 22, 2015, 02:11:46 PM »
Hi all, wondering what kind of anti-sieze you use for pairing aluminium parts with stainless hardware?  I've read that copper grease can increase the corrosion with this combo of metals, and not sure what to use instead?  I've seen lithium grease, silver grease, etc.  What would you recommend?

Never mix alloy and stainless ! That is the answer.
Use stainless spokes with alloy nipples and it does not matter what you use, after a month or so you will not be able to adjust.

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #5 on: January 22, 2015, 02:43:01 PM »
That may explain how my engine mounting bolts got so siezed in that the engine cases cracked rather than release them, even with oxy acetalene to provide the heat and lots of oil, releasing oil etc. Only had it the once though.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

Offline ka-ja

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2015, 03:16:28 PM »
Hi,
  I use  molybdenum di-sulphide anti-seize compound (maybe wrong spelling) on the tin it says  "dfsm compound" manufacturer is ROCOL, all screws and bolts easy after 30yrs!
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Offline Johnwebley

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #7 on: January 22, 2015, 03:56:03 PM »
so,just to get this right,

 IF I wanted to replace the engine casing screws with stainless,I need that stuff from Rocol ?  sfsm compound

 or risk them siezing
lifelong motorcycle rider,and fan

Offline royhall

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2015, 05:08:24 PM »
Outside of the motorbike world, I worked in precision engineering (as a toolmaker) for 22 years, then 17 years in commercial heating installations. I have worked for three different engineering companies, then my own heating company.

I have used copper grease on assemblies throughout all that time, and I have not had a single problem with seizures, ever. We regularly connect alloy hose ends to steel nipples (both mild and stainless).

Some of the applications, especially in commercial heating, are subject to constant temperature changes, mixed metals, and aggressive chemicals. And as I say, no problem with seized joints or corrosion.

Although I openly admit that better solutions are developed all the time. Personally I will be staying with what I know works well, copper grease.
Current bikes:
TriBsa CCM 350 Twin
Honda CB350F in Candy Bacchus Olive
Honda CB750F2 in Candy Apple Red
Triumph Trident 660 in Black/White
Triumph T100C
Suzuki GS1000HC
Honda CB450K0 Black Bomber
Honda CB750K5 in Planet Blue Metallic (Current Project)

Offline Trigger

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2015, 06:46:22 PM »
so,just to get this right,

 IF I wanted to replace the engine casing screws with stainless,I need that stuff from Rocol ?  sfsm compound

 or risk them siezing

Cast alloy is different and a stainless bolt will not seize the same as a spoke. Also those bolts come in different grades.

Offline ka-ja

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2015, 07:25:56 PM »
Hi,
    I didn't say to use DFSM but it is what I myself use, it is amazing what is available in the engineering industry, also, I haven't seen any major problems using "copper-slip" on engine fastenings, a lot depends on where it is used as it is not a true corrosion inhibitor.
nice bike,nothing in the bank

Offline royhall

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #11 on: January 22, 2015, 07:49:25 PM »
Used many Rocol products over the years. Its all good stuff. If you've no copper slip you may as well buy Rocol,
Current bikes:
TriBsa CCM 350 Twin
Honda CB350F in Candy Bacchus Olive
Honda CB750F2 in Candy Apple Red
Triumph Trident 660 in Black/White
Triumph T100C
Suzuki GS1000HC
Honda CB450K0 Black Bomber
Honda CB750K5 in Planet Blue Metallic (Current Project)

Offline JustcallmeMrT

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #12 on: January 22, 2015, 09:45:15 PM »
Hi all, wondering what kind of anti-sieze you use for pairing aluminium parts with stainless hardware?  I've read that copper grease can increase the corrosion with this combo of metals, and not sure what to use instead?  I've seen lithium grease, silver grease, etc.  What would you recommend?

Never mix alloy and stainless ! That is the answer.
Use stainless spokes with alloy nipples and it does not matter what you use, after a month or so you will not be able to adjust.
Just got my new did rims yesterday and will be pairing with stainless spokes.  
The questions is more in relation to the ally cases and replacing some bolts with stainless, as the originals are pretty corroded.  I was thinking marine grade stainless just for good measure?

Offline Trigger

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #13 on: January 22, 2015, 10:07:23 PM »
You may have a problem getting all the correct sizes in A4 (marine grade) Give Tina a ring at TSS fasteners she has kits for the 550.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CB400-4-Supersport-Engine-Covers-Bolts-Set-Stainless-Steel-NEW-/261743479993?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item3cf1208cb9

Also on the rocker you need to use button heads. The normal alans will get in the way of removing the tappet covers
« Last Edit: January 22, 2015, 10:21:38 PM by Trigger »

Offline matthewmosse

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Re: Anti-sieze for stainless to aluminium?
« Reply #14 on: January 22, 2015, 10:54:39 PM »
This is one thing that has been puzzling me, of the 10 or so 550/500 engines I have had, most have had lots of stainless fastners, never have the 6mm or 8mm ones, even old ones given me trouble, just that one m12 ? One underneath the points holding engine to frame, which seized up really extremely solid , so much so I ground the head off, belted severn shades of the proverbial out of it, got it hot with gas and attempted to oxidise it etc all with it not shifting. I did have a bit of an issue with the button heads being a bit delicate and easy to round off, until I discovered the trick of slightly distorting them with a delicate tap with a hammer on the top - barely enough to mark them and that seemed to work harden them enough that they didn't round off. Might be whatever allen keys I had were a very slightly loose fit.
Got a 500/4 with rust and a sidecar and loadsa bits. nice and original and been round the clock

 

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