4 wire and 2 wire ignition switch

[Spanner1972]

Another question, sorry. Apart from the a obvious, what is the difference between the 2. Thanks.

[steff750]

  obviously the extra wires are for the parking lights what was you thinking

[Bryanj]

All should have 4 wires never seen one with 2

[Lobo]

Hi Spanner.

Bottom line, if you buy an OEM type switch (4 wire) you'll not be disappointed, whereas if you buy a 2 wire switch you're more or less committed to a bike with no parking lights. A 2 wire switch will work fine, basically you feed the (Honda) RED live in from the battery... and then the other wire (Honda BLACK) connects to your bike loom, supplying (key) switched +ve to all circuits, ie ignition, horn, lights, indicators... everything.

The 4 wire switch is a bit more complex, but can indeed be used (simply) as described above if you so wish.

If you want parking lights it gets a bit more complicated. An electrical circuit is not fussy as to where the battery is placed within it... ie, in the PARK position you cannot simply feed +12v to the tail lamp because the power will also flow back through the system, through the inst illumination lights, and through the lights switch into the bike's loom.... powering everything.

What Honda did was to make the tail light (& UK small pilot lamp) a completely independent circuit on the bike....ie completely detached from the loom.

This parking lamp circuit then got its power from one of two supplies... dictated by the 4 wire ignition switch.

In the normal position, @ Main Lights switch on, power went to the binnacle illumination lights + Dip or Main beam. This power ALSO went back to the ignition switch (dashed brown wire) where (due the position of the Switch) it was then connected to the parking lamp circuit (BROWN) ....and bingo, the tail light + small pilot lights come on.

In the PARK position, the main loom is unpowered. In this case the ignition switch RED was connected directly to the ignition switch (BROWN) independent parking light circuit ... just powering the tail light & UK headlight bowl pilot lamp.

In the OFF position everything is obviously disconnected.

In summary:

(1) RED - Battery feed (& normally fused)
(2) BLACK - switched live out to the main loom.
(3) DASHED BROWN - Lights switch power feed back to the ignition switch.
(4) BROWN - Power feed to the Tail lamp / headlamp pilot light.

Normal running (1) & (2) connected, also (3) & (4) connected
PARK - (1) & (4) connected.
OFF - nothing connected.

Simon

[JamesH]

Simon that's a brilliant Explanation thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom.

[Spanner1972]

Lobo, big thanks for that reply. Excellent. I'm going to be asking a lot of stupid questions as I'm totally new to this and intact I actually can't ride a bike. Yeh I know a bit mad to be honest, bought the project and as therapy for myself and to get my head out of my arse and something to focus on. All the questions I'm asking are totally alien to me, but it's coming along now slowly. Just now figuring out the electrics and where I want to position switches (it's a bobber and I'm only running back and front lights and the horn) not sure if I'm going with handlebars controls or an electric box to hold all the switches and wiring. I'll have to have the horn on the bars as per MOT reqs. Big thanks to all for answering any of my amateurish questions. Cheers gents.

[matthewmosse]

Thanks for the explanation of the ignition switch, it answers my only ever issue with the wiring on mine which lost its tail light a decade ago and I tempoarily ran new wiring from elsewhere to power it and have to be honest dodging fixing it on my re commissioning of the bike, now armed with this new insight I can have a more informed go at sorting the wires, being not exactly a wizard on the electricals I have a fear of letting all the smoke out of the wires, the function of the smoke escapes me but it must be inportant as I find vehicle wiring where the smoke has escaped rarely works as intended.

[Green1]

As always Simon you've made something that baffles almost everyone relatively simple.
Luckily my bike only has 2 wires so I haven't messed that up yet. 

Mick
   

[Lobo]

Thanks gents for the kind comments...

Spanner... tinkering with my bikes very therapeutic too, can't beat a warm garage, kettle in the corner, the right tools.. & beautiful old Honda to play with.

Electrics... that diagram you published within your regulator / rectifier forum pretty much is all you need... though I do note it has a 3 position ignition switch.... aaargh!

You mention a handlebar horn switch (regulations).... I don't know about kill switch regs but suggest you place one in an obvious spot for obvious reasons....

And don't worry about 'amateurish' questions - I've posted more than you could shake a stick at. Fact is, what a bloody great forum, folk just want to help & pass on their own experiences.

Simon

[JustcallmeMrT]

Lobo, big thanks for that reply. Excellent. I'm going to be asking a lot of stupid questions as I'm totally new to this and intact I actually can't ride a bike. Yeh I know a bit mad to be honest, bought the project and as therapy for myself and to get my head out of my arse and something to focus on. All the questions I'm asking are totally alien to me, but it's coming along now slowly. Just now figuring out the electrics and where I want to position switches (it's a bobber and I'm only running back and front lights and the horn) not sure if I'm going with handlebars controls or an electric box to hold all the switches and wiring. I'll have to have the horn on the bars as per MOT reqs. Big thanks to all for answering any of my amateurish questions. Cheers gents.

This is exactly what I'm doing!  Bought a bike last August to give myself a project, and will be going for my license next week!  In at the deep end, but swimming is fun!

[Spanner1972]

Big thanks yo you all gents, ordered a few parts on the weekend and they'll be here this week hopefully. What's everyone using for a bike lift to get it off the floor to work on? Those hydraulic lifters are expensive as hell, seen a few on ebay on auction but they are all collect in person due to the weight. A couple a big wooden blocks it looks like then. Once again thanks all. 

[matthewmosse]

For lifting the bike, a few wooden blocks or a stool - look to moto x lifters etc for inspiration as you have a chop I think, so less clutter like centre and sidestand. What I use varies according to the bike, my rebel I hoist using a chain hoist off a beam and a bit of baler twine either round the headstock or rear shock mounts to lift the end I am working on enough to get wheels off and it holds things steady if you need to hammer the bike, it doesn't fall off unlike balancing it on boxes and stools etc. I have a hydraulic bike lift, it takes up too much space so rarely gets used. Once a bike is on its wheels I like them sat on the floor where they cannot fall over.
I vastly prefer bikes with a centre stand as they are a lot easier to work on and stay steady even when you need to hammer a swing arm spindle out.

[Spanner1972]

Wooden blokes for me, cutting some old railway sleepers we have in work now. Just enough to lift the bike so i can work on the wheels.

[Bryanj]

Wooden blokes, you mean like store indians

[Spanner1972]

Only now seen that. lol