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Topics - andy120t
16
« on: July 04, 2022, 04:41:24 PM »
Carbs are PD,a on a 550f2 engine. I'm missing the carb return spring which shuts the carbs when the throttle is released and wondering if anyone has a spare ( or anything vaguely similar..as all the old hardware sources I used to know have vanished). It's approx 80 mms long.
Picture below to show the type of spring it is.
It's part 5 on the parts diagram.
(I assume the taper makes it easier to hold open at lower revs).
Thanks for any help...I'm not sure my elastic band replacement will last much longer, but at least the postman keeps leaving me plenty on the drive.
Andy
17
« on: July 04, 2022, 04:26:53 PM »
Hi,
I'm looking for a few fittings to help me mount the airbox.
Specifically, parts 15 and 3 - which are the angle brackets that attach the front of the airbox to the frame.
And 16, which is an oval washer with a raised bit that slots into the lower mounting hole.
I'm also missing parts 25, and 26 which are spacers to stop the box being crushed between the fittings and might be rattling around, unloved and unwanted, in the bottom of a spare bix.
Finally, part 5 which is a spring thingy that holds the air filter in place.
Any help gratefully appreciated!
Andy
18
« on: June 14, 2022, 08:08:29 AM »
My first big bicycle had airless tyres, but they were blocks of rubber rather than the level of tech. It's an interesting article, not something I was aware of, and would certainly save on flat tyre hassles as well as space in the car. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-61644033
19
« on: February 05, 2022, 02:38:58 PM »
Nice little 350/4 on auto trader if anyone is looking for one. (It's nothing to do with me!) I can't make the link work though.. Price looks OK to me, but I'm happy to be told otherwise!
20
« on: December 10, 2021, 01:51:49 PM »
..just thought it might be interesting to share and receive a few thoughts for seasonal gifts (I'm thinking low cost, so don't say ' 0-mile Sandcast, or similar!).
My starter for ten -
Stealing Speed book by Matt Oxley. All about two-stroke development in the Eastern Bloc by a chap called Walter Kaaden and how it was pinched by Ernst Degner who defected, stole the tech knowledge and helped Suzuki become a top two-stroke manufacturer. Great read.
21
« on: October 06, 2021, 07:31:28 PM »
I'm in the garage trying to adjust the clutch. As a starting point, can anyone tell me .. should all the 4 bolts that hold the clutch / basket be fully screwed in? I've been searching round for inspiration and I think they should be, but when they are I can't disengage the engine/ drive chain.
It seems unlikely that the push rod is too short, and I'm out of adjustment on the lever / cable so I assume my setup is wrong somewhere. Only options i rethink of are that the bolts have pushed the whole lot in too far, or maybe I have the wrong cable with too much freeplay/cable.
Any thoughts appreciated!
22
« on: September 23, 2021, 12:04:17 PM »
I have some carbs with PD46A C (in a rectangle) PHJ stamped on them. Throttle cables aren't connected. When I open them, they don't snap shut, just slowly ease shut.
Odly, I can't work out where the return spring should be (as I thought I could clean it replace it). Should it be next to the carb 4 ..I have what looks like a mounting there, next to the tickover adjustment, but there isn't a spring..
I looked in the Haynes manual but the diagram isn't clear in terms of location.
23
« on: July 10, 2021, 08:41:40 AM »
https://www.bikeexif.com/electric-honda-cb200?omhide=trueI like this little thing - very clean lines. Maybe the challenge is to fit the motor into the existing crankcase X and cylinder block? This website sends me daily emails with cool bikes on - suggest you all sign up, it gives a great morning read.
24
« on: June 26, 2021, 02:12:03 PM »
Cb550f2 - the clutch isnt disengaging. I've taken it apart to check the plates aren't stuck together. Just wondering now as a first step to understanding and fixing it, what exactly should move in there?....
When I pull in the clutch handlebar lever, it raises the lever by the kick start and the cam in the cases pushes the actuating arm which pushes the 'pushrod- with- two-ball bearings' thing. Then what? What moves after that and in which direction?
Also, I think someone may have been in there before me:
If I'm missing the washer behind the circlip on the clutch basket, is that a major problem?!
If I push the ball bearing rod thing, should I be able to see the plates separate? (at the moment I can't get any movement)
Should the actuating inside the case arm have a spring on top of it? Currently mine doesn't and the arm just flops forward when I try to install the case. I saw a thread elsewhere that says the spring which is behind the arm on mine, should be in front of the arm (see piccie).
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If I tighten the 4 bolts and plate too much would that stop it working?
Thanks for any thoughts!
25
« on: June 22, 2021, 07:51:31 PM »
I read a post earlier today in Anoraks Corner...about a 'replacement swing arm for a 400' Nurse Julie referenced a Dresda swing arm.... I searched Dresda to see if they advertised them and got lots of results including the website below, an interview either Dave Degens ( it's quite a good read).... https://www.aahorsham.co.uk/content/davedegensHe talks about being in a programme called Dangerman with Patrick McGoohan...never heard of it..I must be too young.... I'm now trying to avoid the evenings football, scroll down to London Live/ channel 8 where there is a black and white programme on....checked the listings...its Danger Man with Patrick McGoohan. How spooky. Only spookier thing would be if I spot Mr Degens!
26
« on: June 16, 2021, 08:46:20 AM »
Can anyone tell me what the bracket mounted below these coils is? I can't see it on th CMSNL parts fiche and am not sure why it's there!
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Thanks.
27
« on: June 09, 2021, 04:07:14 PM »
What have I done - I have an idea, but I wonder if I've damaged anything?
I bought a spare 550 engine which I've seen bench run. Wiring was minimal. I wanted to then test it still home so wired up myself..
- power via a fuse to the coils
- trigger wires from the points to the coils
That's it. Basic wiring. I checked one spark plug using the kick start and it sparked ok, then I forgot to take the fuse (my ignition switch) out.
Faffed about for 10 minutes trying to connect a 'too narrow' fuel pipe to the carbs, then realised there was a funny smell and smoke rising from one coil. Fuse out, fire averted, no fuel anywhere. But the coil was too hot to touch.
Most of the wires and connectors are new, clean and cold. Just the coil is hot. I've read up a bit and had a look at the points - one side will take a .2mm feeler but not a .3mm. Other side is closed shut and this one is linked to the hot coil. So is this constantly triggering the spark?
- I assume then that this means something Is permanently occuring in that coil? Is that a permanent high current flow?
- Might the coil be ruined and what / how do I test. Just the resistance levels?
- Can I reset the closed points easily ( just by moving them to get a basic gap?) ..I haven't ever encountered them before, it's like seeing an 8 track!
- Any other thoughts about what could have caused this,mid not the above?
Thanks!
28
« on: May 27, 2021, 08:16:23 AM »
Hi,
I've been offered a 550 rear wire wheel whic I might pick up for one of my projects. I know they can crack on the liner - Does anyone have any piccie of this damage so I can ensure I spot if it's there? I've found one in an earlier thread but it's a close up so I'm not clear where the cracking can occur.
- is it a steel insert/ liner (that the shoes press on?) rather than the wheel itself?
Also, any thoughts on a ballpark figure? I'm assuming it will be average but usable condition, so some surface rust, but OK inside.
Any other thoughts / comments on things to be aware of happily received!
Thanks!
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