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Messages - Bryanj
Pages: 1 ... 671 672 [673] 674 675 ... 678
10081
« on: September 16, 2008, 04:36:21 PM »
Bleed nipple size is not common on cars and the pins i've yet to find another source
10082
« on: September 14, 2008, 03:37:19 PM »
Thatl do it as long as you dont want to leave it with side lights on----which i always thought was a damn stupid idea anyway
10083
« on: September 14, 2008, 03:35:22 PM »
Now I say this from experience
" Who the hell wants a brake that locks in the wet!!!!"
Twin stainless, pissin rain, 3" standing water, R/H bend+ Old biddy not looking=
New:-
Bottom yolk
Bars
R/H Headlamp bracket
R/H indicator
10084
« on: September 08, 2008, 12:55:34 PM »
OK they aint as good as todays bikes but for their time were better than adequate.
rear drums tend to rust and go oval and front pivots sieze allong with pistons, some say the goodriche brake hoses make a difference but basicaly a well maintained system should have the front forks nearly bottoming but wont squeel the tyre
10085
« on: September 02, 2008, 12:12:00 PM »
Is it an F2 engine or just the cases? Not worth that much for a hoge podge with no written history
10086
« on: August 25, 2008, 02:41:11 PM »
that a 77/78 K3?
10087
« on: August 16, 2008, 06:05:37 PM »
Hints on building:-
There are 20 each of two types of spoke---
one goes from the ouside inwards and the other from the inside outwards,
Sort out the first type and where they go in the hub and just fit those and lace to rim, get these tight and the rim running true.
This way you are only adjusting 20 spokes not 40; the other 20 you can slide in a fit easily (Don't work if you do it the other way round!)
When truing find where the rim is "Welded" and mark it as there is always a "Kick" at that point and trying to true it out has sent many a novice do-lally
10088
« on: August 13, 2008, 06:56:24 AM »
Personally dont like stainless as its too stiff and not maleable
10089
« on: August 06, 2008, 04:59:59 AM »
I think you may have missunderstood
Most bits will fit but you will have to make some bracketry for the "Hang On" parts like exhausts
10090
« on: August 06, 2008, 04:56:26 AM »
Dont know of any code on tyre that gives date of manufacture,
DID was Honda OEM supplier
Rims and spoke kits from Dave Silver
Lacing and truing just takes time and patience---Give me a call andi'll talk you through it
10091
« on: August 03, 2008, 12:08:08 AM »
Remove drain screw, retire to middle of big field and pump up and down vigorously, standing well away from the drain screw.
This method is for all non environmentaly concious riders-----if you are so minded tie wrap a large placky bag around the fork lower before pumping, no need for middle of field then either
10092
« on: July 31, 2008, 05:09:55 AM »
lots available some unobtainium, you probably already sold Dave Silver your firstborn if the engine is out pull the sump pan and check condition of primary chain as it can, and does, eat into the main oil galleries
10093
« on: July 31, 2008, 05:06:19 AM »
That exhaust is too damnn low to the ground and all the visible bits say its a uk/european one, Definately Non Standard paint
10094
« on: July 29, 2008, 04:38:37 AM »
F2 domed with 410 middle part number
10095
« on: July 28, 2008, 06:35:26 AM »
First one is only good for studs, never sen or heard of second one, personaly i would just cut the head off with a big hacksaw and replace the filter housing, should be an easy find at a breakers, same on 400/500/550/750 not sure about F2750 or 650 but filters are same so may be cept F2 is black, i should have several in my tip, sorry garage, for if you come over
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