This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - toucheturtle
1
« on: August 03, 2019, 09:12:55 PM »
The 750/4 rear mudguard fits straight on, just make sure the tail light bracket holes are UK spec
2
« on: February 25, 2018, 11:37:13 AM »
Devon Rims do the best chrome rims, British made and the wheel builder I use says they're the best, they do stainless as well. Some stainless rims are quite dull and don't look as good as chrome
3
« on: October 16, 2017, 09:44:16 PM »
Looks the same as my 500K2, seat strap doesn't look original
4
« on: September 22, 2017, 05:05:50 PM »
First job I had when I left school was working at a petrol tank laminators. Back then you couldn't get pattern tanks and manufacturer's new tanks were too expensive. We were mad busy all day every day, there was a massive diesel powered pressure washer which I used. It had a detergent tank and produced high pressure steam. We'd remove the petrol tanks, take out the senders and thoroughly wash and rinse the tanks out, grind off all the paint, braze any holes or plate large patches and then laminate the whole tank in fibre glass mat and then tissue, finish off painting in gloss black.
The end result used to look pretty good but when pattern tanks came out they were more or less the same price, still did the odd car with a rare tank but eventually the firm folded. In the time I was there despite all the precautions we still had two tanks explode. One time we ran out of detergent & diesel so I was told just to give the tank a thorough wash with the steam cleaner set to high pressure cold wash. The welder lit the oxy/acet torch and went to scrape the torch tip on the tank filler pipe. Bang, the tank ripped apart at the seam and he suffered flash burns to his face and hands, all his hair and eyebrows singed off. Obviously I got the blame and a good bollocking. Made me very cautious when I started welding them.
5
« on: August 17, 2017, 09:27:40 AM »
You can do anything you like to personalise or improve your motorbike, that isn't the issue, trying to ask £8000+ for a CB500 is the issue. I don't know if any CB500 is worth that kind of money but one which isn't totally original and mint certainly isn't
Well don't bid on it then! all the parts on it are original maybe not honda originals but originally from somewhere.
This forum is for Honda four enthusiasts and telling potential bidders why it isn't worth the asking price and what to look out for is part of the advantage of being on the forum. If you bought that bike and found it wasn't worth half what you paid you'd be pretty gutted
6
« on: August 16, 2017, 03:35:05 PM »
You can do anything you like to personalise or improve your motorbike, that isn't the issue, trying to ask £8000+ for a CB500 is the issue. I don't know if any CB500 is worth that kind of money but one which isn't totally original and mint certainly isn't
7
« on: August 08, 2017, 09:47:18 AM »
Looks like he's painted the engine in one complete unit and not sure if he's painted the carb bodies and carb mounting plate too. He certainly likes his silver paint, used it on the front brake pipe and caliper mount as well. Certainly well overpriced wants mint original money for a so so resto job
8
« on: May 31, 2017, 11:30:55 AM »
I used Chromefix in March to do four headers for my CBX750. Cost £230 and they did a good job, silencers in the picture are new
9
« on: May 29, 2017, 09:49:34 PM »
10
« on: May 25, 2017, 05:37:28 PM »
11
« on: May 09, 2017, 10:07:14 PM »
The original seat cover can't be replicated with the thick plastic/chrome rand which fits over the edge of the seat base. Only seat covers. You can get replacement covers which have plain vinyl edges which you have to glue or clip down & then fit a chrome effect trim over
12
« on: May 03, 2017, 03:26:07 PM »
Well fearing the worst I ordered new bearings, the needle bearing had to come from America as they're pretty hard to get now. I bought a NOS mainshaft as well for £50 also from America. That shaft is the only part of the engine and gearbox which hasn't been replaced in the past so thought I'd go the whole hog.
While waiting for the the stuff to come the shim arrived from New Zealand, I thought I'd just try it with a new circlip. I put on and built up the clutch plates and fitted new clutch springs. There's absolutely no movement, I thought I'd replace the clutch cover and fill it with oil. I've run it and there's no rubbing and the gears and clutch work fine.
The steel plates were a bit grubby and the clutch plates were facing the wrong way. I've cleaned everything but don't know how I'm going to prevent the plates from sticking together in future. I read someone recommended pulling the clutch lever in and securing it in that position.
13
« on: April 27, 2017, 06:13:16 PM »
That is so annoying, the engine is spot on and the gearbox works perfectly. I can adjust the clutch so it doesn't rub but if the end float is excessive I'll have to get it sorted. If the damage was caused by trying to free sticking clutch plates I don't know how I'm going to prevent it happening again
14
« on: April 27, 2017, 04:42:04 PM »
I have taken the basket off, the shaft has 1mm of movement, I had the manual out and did notice the 3 different sized shins. Mine has a .2mm fitted, managed to source a.5mm from PlenterNZ. £11.50 including air mail. Will try that and see how much play remains. Wish I could stop the clutch plates from sticking together in future.
15
« on: April 27, 2017, 09:42:02 AM »
Oh dear I don't like the sound of that, it's the clutch outer drum with the in/out movement, the centre & plates and cover have no movement. The outer drum is only held on by a circling so not sure how I would eliviate it or why there would only be movement on the outer
|
Show Posts