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Topics - ginger_jim
1
« on: June 12, 2016, 04:07:23 PM »
Hi all, took the K7 for MOT yesterday and it sailed through except we couldn't get the wheels aligned (got soaked to the skin in to the bargain  ) Tester was using two straight lengths of ally. We had to adjust the rear wheel miles out on the chain adjusters. Hopefully you can see from the photos that the chain side is adjusted out about 5mm more than the brake side. As far as the tester was concerned it wasn't a failure as long as the wheels were aligned so the bike passed. When I rebuilt the bike the right, front brake lever side, fork leg was found to have a small bend in it. My question is, if the bottom yoke is twisted due to the same impact would it kick the front end out that much? Cheers, Jamie
2
« on: June 10, 2016, 10:05:09 AM »
On my K7 the non adjustable slide for balancing purposes is on number three cylinder. My understanding is that you count the cylinder numbers from right to left sitting on the bike. Am I correct? The manual states that the idle screw is between numbers 1&2.
If someone has split the carb bank and reassembled in the wrong order I guess it doesnt make any difference but wondered if anyone had any differing opinion. It does seem to be a bugger to balance the carbs, even with tappet and timing settings bang on; getting a lot of clutch rattle.
Thanks all.
3
« on: June 09, 2016, 07:52:01 AM »
Hi all, thought i'd check my battery voltage yesterday and got the above reading. Battery is a year old and visually looks good, Dave Silver 'MF' from memory, spent the winter being plugged into an optimate for 24 hours once a week and insulated against the cold. I instantly though dodgy meter, so I checked my beemer battery which has been maintained the same way (its an odyssey) and it gave a similar reading. Went and checked my van battery and it read 13.4 volts. Anyone had similar experiences? Could the optimate be on the way out and both batteries are toast? 
4
« on: April 03, 2016, 08:18:20 PM »
Hi all, my tacho needle is sticking. It will go up normally to about 4 thou and then it jams. A good couple of slaps on the top of the case will make the needle return.
Any advice on how to fix or is it time for a second hand replacement?
Cheers!
5
« on: July 22, 2015, 09:59:28 AM »
So after a couple of hundred miles post rebuild I noticed an oil leak which I put down to a pattern head gasket, but seems like the head has 'settled' onto the barrels and consequently the head bolts are now loose - like finger tight. Now I know all you lot will be scoffing and querying my torque wrench or mechanical prowess, but I can assure you everything was torqued as to honda spec with a snap on wrench. Is this a common issue or does anyone think that the nuts or threads could be worn? Anyway...off to the garage tonight to get the lump out.
6
« on: July 09, 2015, 08:21:38 AM »
Hi all, having covered a couple of hundred miles on the old girl im uncovering a couple of issues.
1 - The bike has a set of very nice hagons but they are so hard the bike reminds me of a hardtail I rode, which subsequently put me off choppers for life because of untold kidney damage :-) I suspect they are not the correct set for the model. I wondered if any of you concours guys might have an non-standard set lying around that I could try?
2 - Very slight oil leak from head gasket on the outside of no.4 - might sound like a stupid question but has anyone any tricks up theirs sleeves from tightening the head nuts without removing the engine?
Cheers all, Jamie
7
« on: June 14, 2015, 05:26:08 PM »
Well guys, wish me luck. A lot of blood, sweat, money and tears and some great help from BryanJ and Bitsa to get this far. Have taken it for a quick spin (on privates roads of course constable  ) and it feels, well pretty weird to be honest but im sure ill get used to it again. The last time I rode a 750/4 was in 1988! Brakes are actually pretty good; I was worried that stopping would involve a length of rope and an anchor! Ill let you all know how it goes anyway!
8
« on: June 02, 2015, 01:44:54 PM »
Hi all, on close inspection it looks like my fork legs are creased, so if my memory serves me well they cant be re-chromed and straightened? New fork tubes seem unavailable worldwide. Anyone got any good ideas as I seem to be up sh1t creek without a paddle! 
9
« on: May 21, 2015, 03:42:21 PM »
Here is an interesting anomaly. If I push my indicator switch fully to the left or right the indicators light up but do not flash. If I push the switch half way between the off and on position they do flash. This is without the engine running, and with both the original thermal and an electric flasher unit displaying the same behavior.
Any ideas? I'm suspecting the switch and unfortunately I don't have a spare to test the theory.
10
« on: May 19, 2015, 11:12:39 PM »
Just stripped down my carbs to replace all the gaskets and seals. Pulled the four Pilot air screw assemblies and only number 1 carb had the washer and seal present. Does anyone know where I can get some of the washers? I cant understand why a PO wouldn't have put them back in? Size is outer 5mm inner 3mm and 0.5mm wide.
Cheers
11
« on: May 17, 2015, 03:25:12 PM »
Hi all, bit confused about fitting.  So after taking off the original units I have plugged in the new combined unit block connector. I now have the black, white and green regulator female spade connectors and also another green female spade that would have earthed the original rectifier 'hangin lose' The new combined unit has a black and red cable which splits to make two spade connectors. Im assuming that connecting these to the black and white regulator connectors is all i need to do, and the two green earth spades which would have earthed the original units are now redundant because earthing the new unit is taken care of by the green in the main block? Dont panic! I have a very good tested earth Cheers
12
« on: May 14, 2015, 06:55:32 PM »
Hi all - Mineral 10/40? Semi synthetic?
I've heard differing opinions but I think ill go straight mineral oil unless im told different.
Cheers
13
« on: May 11, 2015, 09:35:34 PM »
Hi all - any advice when stripping down the LH switch gear? Any horrors to look out for?
Cheers
14
« on: May 08, 2015, 12:50:12 PM »
Hi all, the output loom for the stator and field coil needs to be refurbished as basically knackered. Everthing has gone brittle due to age and heat from the oil I guess. Any recommendations for refurbishing as I might as well get everything checked as part of the process?
Cheers
15
« on: May 06, 2015, 03:57:58 PM »
Hi all, does anyone know of an electrics guru in the south west, ideally Devon area? I need some help with my loom and would be happy to pay. I have connected the majority of the loom which is a replacement sourced from a european model. What is stopping me in my tracks is the 'spaghetti' inside the headlamp left when the main connectors are done, relays etc.
Cheers
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