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Messages - archmill
16
« on: March 17, 2017, 06:51:27 PM »
I couldn't get the rotor off and just about ruined a three leg puller. Took the crank with the rotor attached to my local bike shop and he got it off with a bit of grunt and bad language using a spider ( looks like a car wheel brace ). No charge.
17
« on: March 17, 2017, 06:45:39 PM »
Far as I know, industry standard is 1thou clearance all round ( 0.025mm ). Using your plastigauge, it pushes the crank away so there is no clearance at one side and double the clearance at the plastigauge. Therefore a standard 1 thou all round clearance should read 2 thou ( 0.05 mm ) with the plastigauge measuring card.
How do I post articles I did for a magazine ( word documents 4.8mb showing how plastigauge works and 4.2mb showing how to select cb750 shells ) ?
18
« on: February 19, 2017, 11:02:34 PM »
P.S. you can't remove the head with the engine in place. I made and fitted a frame kit which allows you to remove a section of frame, them you can remove the head and cylinders.
19
« on: February 19, 2017, 10:59:40 PM »
Bought valves, valve retainer plates, guides and stem seals from cyclex in USA for £260. Adding postage, VAT and auntie Teressa's cut ( import duty ) came to £350. The valve retainer plates are to stop the valve collets pulling through, which is exactly what happened before I got the bike
20
« on: May 28, 2016, 11:27:13 AM »
yozzer74, you have to insulate the cable from the starter motor housing, remember it will be live when you press the starter button and the starter housing is earthed to the engine. Once the new cable is fitted you must check it with a meter to make sure the starter cable touches nothing but the connector inside the started motor. If not, big sparks, quite spectacular LOL
21
« on: May 15, 2016, 11:31:23 AM »
I used 16mm2, 110 AMP. De-soldered the existing cable from the starter motor, filed the internal connection flat with a needle file and replaced it with a button head screw from inside ( 6mm I think ) with a washer and nut on the outside with enough thread to take an eyelet and nut and put an eyelet on the new cable with a rubber boot, therefore no joints from starter solenoid to motor.
Archmill
22
« on: April 11, 2016, 06:25:32 PM »
23
« on: December 13, 2015, 06:16:59 PM »
Moorey, there is a previous thread. Search for " frame kit ". here's a photo of the one I made. 
24
« on: September 15, 2015, 11:15:26 PM »
Here's mine before and after using US carb cleaning fluid from Allandale
25
« on: September 10, 2015, 11:32:06 PM »
26
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:37:18 AM »
Nah! it's one I made myself.
27
« on: August 19, 2015, 12:52:52 PM »
To let air move between the cylinders ?
28
« on: August 19, 2015, 12:50:57 PM »
It's all on the parts microfiche, need a copy ?
Archmill
29
« on: July 30, 2015, 12:56:02 AM »
captaink, found it. not in the best of nick, one lug has a crack and a gouge out of it.
30
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:24:05 PM »
You could make the seat lock fit the key, fairly simple job.
Archmill
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