Teds new project a CB500 K1 mostly version 0.5 circa 1972.

[Oddjob]

Did a massive reply yesterday on my Ipad, was just about to press send when it just went off. 75% battery power and it said the battery was flat. Put it on charge and of course the reply is now gone.

So here goes again.

Test rig. Used my old genuine Honda handlebars, a genuine left hand switchgear and some old but good throttle cables. For the carbs I just used the frame with the butterfly on as carbs are not needed for this. I marked everything up at rest and then remarked when throttle fully open. Check reply 137 on this thread. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19895.135.html It explains what I did and what the results were.

20 miles would be good to do the test run on the 500 Ted, but hey ho, it's your money and I can see why postage may be better.

Whilst you've got the left hand switchgear open have you checked to see if the throttle clamp is working. This is the large chrome screw under the switch and between the cables, when you wind it in the throttle stiffens up, which I can see you frowning thinking why would I want that, well on a motorway you can wind this screw in as you ride and the throttle will stay open at a set speed, all that pressure of holding the throttle open goes away, in case you need to shut off the throttle you just twist it and the return cable closes the throttle against the pressure of the clamp. The screw should have a chrome spring on but there is an internal ramp? which usually falls out when you open the switchgear and rolls away and you never notice it. Check to see if this ramp is there. It's a very handy bit of kit, can be used to set the tickover at 3000 to check the advance retard mechanism for instance, which is what Honda fitted it for IIRC. The 750 and the 500 got this clamp, the 550 did not. However everything on the 550 switchgear is there except the drilling for the screw, I converted my 550 switchgear to fit one as I use it a lot.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I've ordered the 1300 grip & grip tube for the LHS.

Can't ride my 500 today as it's stuck on my bike stand - on it's centre stand - either my brother or a friend will have to help me get it off safely.

On my 400 I could stradle the bike on the stand, put my left foot on the stand lever and push forwards pulling on the front brake before the front wheel hits the front stop plate - the 500 is heavier plus the lever is higher off the ground I just can't hold the stand with my left foot the whole bike moves forward instead on the darn ramp base. It might be the centre stand pivot is a little seized.

I've tried putting a long piece of wood between the ramp end & the foot of the cente stand but it's just does not quite come off the stand. Not worth risking me falling over with the bike trying to do it alone - or even worse the bike falling on Wendy's car in the garage -

[Oddjob]

Ted, the 500 is my baby, I've done things to 500s that most others haven't even thought of. One of the things is fitting the centre stand with a grease nipple. Now the tube of the centre stand isn't thick enough to take a nipple without it fouling the pin, so what I did was drill a 5mm hole central on the tube, in a location that I knew I could get a grease gun to when it's fitted and where there was little chance of it fouling anything. Tap the hole to 6mm and flat spot the tube, insert a 6mm bolt with a nut on, flanged might work better but mine was just a plain nut. Thread the bolt into the hole and then tighten the nut down onto the flat spot. Get it welded there, a seam weld so grease doesn't escape when the pressure is on. Remove the bolt after and using a 6mm copper washer fit a grease nipple. A few quick squeezes once a year and the stand will never seize again, it rolls on and off like it's not even there. You can do the hole 4mm and use a 5mm nipple if you so choose and stainless nipples are now readily available when they weren't when I first did this back in the late 70s.

I fitted grease nipples all over the bike, the rear brake pivot tube for the brake lever has one, both front caliper mounts have them, swinging arm got a central grease nipple to improve the way the bushes got greased, even the headstock got one, I can grease the taper rollers without taking the bike apart.

I have further plans to improve the side stand and make it cut the engine out if you set off with it down (and you will do this, everyone has), lots of ideas, some good, some just weird.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Thanks again Ken for the advice I'll look at doing something similar when doing the strip down.

Good news young Marco (I got him through his driving test almost 5 yrs ago) dropped by on his way home from work to help me get the bike safely off the ramp.
I'm cooking the tea now for when Wendy's back from work so the road test will have to wait till the morrow.

[Sesman]

C’mon Ted. Make an effort the suspense is killing me…🫣

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

C’mon Ted. Make an effort the suspense is killing me…🫣
[/quote

Philip, I have a small widow of opportunity tomorrow I have a Hospital appointment at 3.50 pm and an important delivery between 11.00am & 2.00pm. if I go for after 2.00pm and break down - problem. If I go at around 9 30 am it works for me if it's dry!

If I break down early morning then Royal Mail can try a neighbour!

[Bryanj]

If you break down i will be pissed off mate BUT it will drink more petrol than you think on short journeys

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

No test  ride this morning I have an an aural migraine - no headache just disturbed vision usually lasts 20 minutes - I get them every few months - might try a ride late this afternoon.

[Sesman]

You’re just teasing us….

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You’re just teasing us….

Wuss is nearer the mark - I have the odd bad days amongst good days - today my thighs ached when I got up - must have run a marathon whilst asleep - it's also known as old age.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

You’re just teasing us….

You have shamed me into a first ride now I'm back home from my appointment Philip.

After a tin of Popeye's best spinach I rode around the estate at the back to see how I managed - it felt as heavy as my old XJ 900 as I pootled round the block only got as far as third gear due to traffic, speed limit, seemingly poor  heavy front brake plus  rear pedal is a tad low. My feet seem too big I keep on striking the alternator housing with my size 12's- shame its not heel & toe shift.

The bike certainly fits me better in terms of comfort / height - it seems to have a lot more grunt/torque than my 400.  As the bike has been standing it might be prudent for me to check the caliper piston operation before I do another run to get into top gear. 

A promising start from my perspective. It reminded me of when I first rode my Triumph 21 when I was 19/20.

BP & Pulse back to normal.

[Oddjob]

Check the rear brake pedal punch marks align with the brake spindle Ted, if they do try adjusting the height screw on the frame, you can raise or lower the pedal with it.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Check the rear brake pedal punch marks align with the brake spindle Ted, if they do try adjusting the height screw on the frame, you can raise or lower the pedal with it.

The adjustment screw is a long way out so moving the pedal a spline ot two will sort.

[Sesman]

Really pleased you have broken your duck, Ted. Congratulations.

Now for next outing…..

[Oddjob]

Moving the splines may not be the answer though Ted. Honda used punch marks so as to make it easy to not only get the mechanism right but also to highlight when it had a problem.

If the punch marks line up, not only on the brake pedal and brake spindle but also on the brake drum arm and it’s spindle and things still don’t feel right it shows that somewhere there’s a problem. It could be worn brake shoes or the pivot pin has excessive play or one of the levers is bent etc so just moving the splines may in fact cover up the fault.