Teds new project a CB500 K1 mostly version 0.5 circa 1972.

[Oddjob]

Don’t drill unless you really need to. In alloy the metal is so soft you can normally just use the tap to enlarge the hole. I’ve done loads of M4 repairs in carbs and they’ve all lasted. Buy a kit off eBay

The insert is normally a few threads too long so cut a couple of threads off.

[Trigger]

Just buy the correct length heli-coils 

[Oddjob]

That's what's in the kit. Why spend money on others when you can just cut down the ones provided. 

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Petrol pipe & vent tubing  arrived today so now have the carbs ready for fitting to the mainiolds - I will attach them to the bike and test for fuel bowl valve leaks.
I know they are only fuel vents but think I will slip some new short pipes in between the carb bank as the left one is a tad manky.
Bench synch done.

 500 carbs by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

Adjuster screws seem high to me Ted, you may find hanging idle with them that high. Try winding them all right down and then bench sync with a 2mm drill instead of a 3mm one, wind the idle adjusting thumb screw right out so it's not touching the lifter arm.

Also open the choke and check all the flaps are level when the chokes fully open.

Pic from the front as well please, I'd like to see how that ceramic chrome effect bracket looks when all the carbs are fitted.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I thought they looked high as well - I used a 3/32" drill bit.
I did wonder if it was the links as they look like thin SS ones that Gerben fitted.

I'll pop a picture up from the other side in the morning.

[Oddjob]

No the figure 8 links are really thin anyway.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

My idle adjuster thumb screw was not fully wound out - about a quater to a third  turn off the stop - does that affect the screw height?

I did this intentionally so if my idle ended up too high it left me with a bit to play with as I could lower the slider height evenly. Presumably me doing that has lifted the other part of the linkage so more thread shows.

Would I be better off unscrewing the thumb screw off the stop completely then setting the sliders at say the thickness of a pop rivett shaft?

[Oddjob]

The thumb screw needs to be fully wound out so it's not touching. When it does start to touch it lifts ALL the lifter arms, the screw doesn't move, that's there to lift each arm separately so the slide are the same level. Unless the thumb screw is fully wound out you can't do the bench sync as it will be miles out.

Try winding the screws right out. Look down the front of the slides, they should be fully bottomed, now do each screw in turn until you see the slide just start to lift, stop there. Do each screw so the slide is just starting to lift. Then screw in the thumb screw and you should see them all lift at the same time, when they do check they all look the same. This way the slides will be fully shut if the thumb screw is wound back out again in the event the tickover is too high or it starts to fast idle etc.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I like that idea Ken - if all  the sliders are just on the point of opening then a hanging throttle shoud be banished.
I guess also pressing down on the brass cap will give little movement from the above setting.

[florence]

wow, they are so clean, quite astonishing.  Also, your workshop looks very smart too.  i think it would take me about a hundred years to get mine anywhere near as tidy.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Lol that's not my workshop Steve it's a shallow plastic box I use when dismantling items when I do not want to loose any bits like washers, springs etc. In colder weather I put the box in my old fishhouse that is a sort of office.

My garage sink area is my untidy area as is the area around my indoor buffing wheel .

PXL_20231019_084502946 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

[Oddjob]

What have you put over the linkage rod retaining screw Ted?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

What have you put over the linkage rod retaining screw Ted?

Some Hondabond!

More precisely a big blob😁😁😁

[Oddjob]

Why, just use a little thread lock.