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front brake adjust

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Oddjob:

--- Quote from: deltarider on January 09, 2024, 09:43:45 AM ---With all due respect and at risk of being blasphemous, may I dare ask this:
if chamfering does not help, why did Honda chamfer them? (see pic)

--- End quote ---

I would suspect they were chamferred from new because as Ted says it helped bedding in of the pads. I would also suspect that what Mike is saying about doing it after doesn't really work is that the problem lies elsewhere and the chamfering doesn't cure the squealing but the fact that to do this means disturbing the braking system and it's that which cures the squeal and people then think it's the chamfering that has done it. He could be wrong, it could be that he's tried it himself and it didn't work for him or it could be that it only works for certain types of squealing caused by a specific fault. 

Johnwebley:
Chamfering originally was for the 2ls drum brakes, to prevent grab,

It could do a similar job with the leading edge of the pads,



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taysidedragon:
My dad always chamfered his drum brakes, single leading shoe,  bike and car.

deltarider:
We'll soon have an answer.
Long time ago I have removed my unchamfered EBC brakepads, because they sqealed like hell, inspite of ATE grease being used. Now that my OEM Honda pads are at the red line, I have reinstalled the EBC pads which I now have chamfered. Next spring I'll report.
I'd like to grab the occasion to come to advised steps regarding reinstalling brakepads that have been in use before, but that are nowhere near the servicable limit. As you can see in the pic they are not worn perfectly even.
Let me try.
I have installed brake pad A, the one at the piston. Realise that this one can not do - wiggle somewhat - what pad B can do as the latter has this slight hump at the back. However I want first to align pad A to the disk as perfectly as possible to have the best starting point. How do I approach this?
The part of the caliper that holds pad B is still dissassembled for the time being.
I've looked for instructions, but although I have quite some manuals and articles, I haven't found the answer in steps I can follow. As you know I'm an amateur and depend on knowledge professionals have.
Thanks in advance.

K2-K6:
These caliper are a hybrid design with swing/radius placement as they pivot on the arm, not often seen in other design now. Virtually everything now moves in parallel/sliding orientation.

The pads will wear ultimately into a wedge shape during use based on the radius of the arm. They ordinarily start approximately parallel (faces of pad to disc) with the arm position dictated by the non active pad, and the active pad more or less fully "retracted" into it's bore. From then onwards in their life they will accumulate wear that forms a wedge as the arm moves across it's arc through adjustment of the screw to take up wear of that non active pad.

Putting the same pair back into the caliper shouldn't be a problem as the wear status will still be correct for the arm geometry when last used in that part worn state.

Basic consideration (fulfilled by this design too) is to keep the back of the pad FULLY in contact with the hydraulic piston. This to facilitate consistent pressure across all of the pad from your hydraulic action of pulling the lever. 

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