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front brake adjust

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Johnwebley:
OK,first slacken the adjustment screw on the fork leg,ensure the caliper support arm moves freely,

The fit the caliper, but loosely,

The fit a flat spacer,about 2 or 3mm thick between the moving pad,now tighten the 2 bolts, when tight, loosen them and remove spacer,then retighten,
The wheel should spin easily, and the caliper swing aswell,

Turn adjustment until the pad just barely touches the disc,then back off Quarter turn,

Pump the brake, should be perfect



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deltarider:
Thanks gentlemen. I'll report back.

--- Quote from: K2-K6 on January 10, 2024, 09:34:41 AM ---[...]
Basic consideration (fulfilled by this design too) is to keep the back of the pad FULLY in contact with the hydraulic piston. This to facilitate consistent pressure across all of the pad from your hydraulic action of pulling the lever.

--- End quote ---
That was and still is exactly my concern. I had not figured out a method - a following order - yet, but I will try what John suggests.
Back in the day these EBC* FA 13 made in Holland pads were quite popular. They are 'semi-metallic', but I have no idea what that means. I remember they were not chamfered at all and offered more 'meat' than OEM pads. They lack the red wear lines OEM pads have.
* European Brake Corporation

Johnwebley:
I think the semi metallic pads were an idea to cut wet weather lag,

The minute metal pieces would cut through the water, and help the pad grip,

A personal note, the recent grey EBC pads I found terrible,




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Bryanj:
"Mettalic" pads were the first idea after asbestos was supposedly banned

deltarider:

--- Quote from: Bryanj on January 10, 2024, 05:14:19 PM ---"Mettalic" pads were the first idea after asbestos was supposedly banned

--- End quote ---
Yep, package said NON ASBESTOS. I wonder if semi-metallic pads can harm disks?

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