First start after rebuild

[DomP]

Very soon I should be ready to start my rebuilt engine, just valves and electronic ignition to adjust and exhaust to fit, having never done this before what procedure should I follow?  I'm slightly nervous about it to say the least, really hope I've done everything correctly.

[Nurse Julie]

Most important.... Take a front tappet cap off at each end and make sure you are getting oil splatters, put a white paper towel in front of the holes to see if you get oil spits. If no oil at top end, turn off engine straight away and investigate. Good luck, I'm sure it will be fine.

[Jan B]

Always a special moment. Keep an eye on the oil light too. Should turn off quickly

[Johnwebley]

Can I suggest you fill with oil as normal

With the plugs out, spin the motor on the starter till the oil light goes out

Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

[SteveW]

When I did my 650 top end, with the rocker cover off and the plugs out I spun it over gently on a battery drill.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

If you fill the oil via the two sides of the  tapett covers that puts a tad up top as well.

[Bryanj]

Big thing is DO NOT turn the engine over with the big nut at points end with plugs in, otherwise just follow manual for tappets and whatever instructions you have for electronic

[DomP]

Thanks all, some really good suggestions there.  I'll let you know how I get on🤞

[davidcumbria]

There’s that big oilway under the crank and the one from the filter to the oil pump. I managed to get a good volume of oil down the oil pressure switch hole on the pump before first turnings with plugs out. Some say uneccessary but I’m glad I did and the oil  pressure light went out immediately on the second burst after one short effort of say 3 seconds seconds getting the oil round. Ever since it’s been immediately out.

The actual start with plugs in took a fair bit of cranking before it fired up on one then two then three cylinders. This seems to be to get fuel through because after that first time it fires on the button even after not starting for a week.

Good luck Dom.

[Spitfire]

Be patient, it took ages for the oil light on my 750 to go out on first start up but I persevered and did not fire her up until it did.

Cheers

Dennis

[mickwinf]

On my rebuild of Lazarus (see my video of first start) it took a few seconds for oil light to go out, it would not go out just cranking on starter. I did make sure I had lots of oil and graphogen on assembly and as advised by Julie take the tappet caps of to check, on my video you can clearly see it splashing out. Make sure the carb bowls are full and good luck! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOScVJ4W2fs

[Laverda Dave]

I used the kickstart to build some oil pressure or at least fill the oilways before using the electric foot.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

It will  certainly be a Buzz for you when you first fire your bike up Dom.
You will panic if you hear any sort of unexpected noise or if it stalls after a few seconds.

Before you know it your apprehension wil be filled with joy.

[Laverda Dave]

I soak the oil filter by pouring oil over it a few times in its housing before bolting it in place. It is surprising how much oil those things soak up. It's a bit messy but it saves a vital few seconds of dead oil time.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I remember when it was fashionable to install aftermarket pre-oilers on some more modern cars (post 1960), some had a pump system to obtain oil pressure before engine cranking began.

The design that I thought was neat consisted of an oil canister that had a servo that emptied the oil into the galleries via an oil filter housing connection. They all enabled positive oil pressure before the engine was cranked over. I believe some classic car owners fitted them when there was plenty of space under the bonnet.