Mike's CB550 Project

[Seabeowner]

I expect early 550s K0, K1s at least had the spacers with the 8mm bolts.
Later 550s have 7mm bolts then no spacers are fitted.

[Mike_Berkshire]

Thanks; I’ll measure the bolt tomorrow.

[Mike_Berkshire]

I have a bent idiot light console. Does anyone have any thoughts about how to remove the dent without cracking the casting? Thanks

[Mike_Berkshire]

Whilst pondering on the dent I thought that I would start on the front brake. The 'free pad' on the piston side is seized solid in the caliper. Before I start getting brutal with it are there any tricks to prise it out/remove it? The piston is solid and the upper brake lines are removed as the brake fluid had solidified so I am not in a position to pump it out with the brake lever. Thanks

[Bryanj]

Mike search gease gun method

[Mike_Berkshire]

Took me a while to work out how to connect the grease gun but once it was on it worked like magic; I didn't think there would be enough force to push out the piston and the pad together but pop; out the came. Brilliant; how did you come up with that idea?

[Bryanj]

Back in the 70's trying everything in the workshop to get one out, you just have to be careful with the thread, original idea was to screw a grease nipple into the hole but at that time couldnt get one the right thread and found that the steel pipe fitted just enough

[Laverdaroo]

The modern grease guns should come with an end that you can take out and turn round to fit the different sized nipple’s…….snigger.
Just a standard grease gun for doing the ones on a digger etc.

I tried it thinking there’s enough pressure to re tighten the tracks on a 25 tonne slew so a piston shouldn’t be too much trouble as mentioned and proven.

I did mine after employing the process on an old Ducati 748/853 I had some years ago After doing it, a pal rang me and suggested trying it, typical but you’d be surprised what you can shift using this process if you can get suitable purchase.


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[Mike_Berkshire]

I had some time to work on the bike today and rebuilt the front brake. I have a new master cylinder assembly, new top, middle and lower brake hose/pipe. New piston, seal and bleed nipple. I cleaned the caliper parts and hose union (brake light switch assembly) with brake and clutch cleaner and made sure it had plenty of time to dry. New brake pads too. I filled the system through the bleed nipple. There is still some air in the system but no leaks and brake seems to be working ok. However, the brake fluid looks dirty already. You can’t see through the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. I don’t understand where the dirt has come from; maybe I should have flushed out the new master cylinder assembly? I’m assuming this isn’t normal; should I flush out the system and start again?

[Mike_Berkshire]

Picture

[K2-K6]

Superficially looks like aluminium "powder" from either machining or wearing.

It usually has a grey type look about it.

Maybe worthwhile draining and cleaning mastercylinder, then refit and try again to assess from there.

To quantify wear, working on many cycle hydraulic brakes, it's something that shows in system with both aluminium bore and aluminium piston together, also when you use abrasives on aluminium it first gets grey, then black-er as it removes material.  Unlikely but possible from initial movement.

Cleaned out and with refill, at least you can see if it develops again in fairly short order.

[Mike_Berkshire]

After a brief period of inactivity, I have sorted the front brake as recommended and it seems good now; I wont know more until I have a proper rolling chassis and at the moment I just have the front wheel but it is beginning to resemble a motorcycle as opposed to a box of corroded and dirty bits. Next is overhauling the wiring and Im not sure where to start. There is one green ground cable that has melted through the insulation at some time in the past. And from the black masking tape wrapping' I guess the loom has been worked on by the PO at least once. Also a lot of corrosion in one of the connector blocks and much general filth.

A good ponder before action I think.

[Bryanj]

That green wire melted cos the main earth was not a good connection and the starter load has to rarth somewhere!

[Mike_Berkshire]

That’s really helpful Bryan; thanks. At the other end of the wire is an earth tag that looks as if it should sit under one of the coil mounting screws. Do you think it likely that this is where the poor connection was or would it be where the cable from the battery is earthed? I will replace this wire when I clean up the loom/connectors.

[Bryanj]

Its the main battery cable connections, people paint the engine bracket and electrickery wont flow through paint! Needs to be clean bare metal against crankcase and for cable to go too.
Yes that gable grounds at coils