1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration

[MrDavo]

the good news is I sucessfully tightened up the nut on the axle, I had to drop the wheel as there wasn't room to get a 25mm spanner in. There is no lug on the drive or fork leg.

The bad news is, using that test, Bryan, the bike isn't charging - the volts stayed at 12v whatever I did. I will check all the connections are clean and intact first. A new rectifier is available from DS, but at just over £100 its an expensive punt if that isn't the fault. All looked to be well with the alternator when I stripped the engine. Ther's not much else it could be as far as I can see.

[Bryanj]

I seem to remember that the switch that turns the lights on also connects alternator coils a bit like the old lucas system on brit bikes

[MrDavo]

My light switch is on the right handlebar, its the same switch as the dip, three positions, off, low and high beam.

I'll need to have a look at the wiring diagram that James sent me.

[Bryanj]

Yellow wire and yellow white comes to mind mate.

If the system is holding 12v it may not be fully charging but it seems to be holding its own. You could put an ammeter in line on a battery lead as long as you do not use the electric starter, that would tell you if it is actually discharging.

[MrDavo]

150 miles on the clock now, and 'bloody lovely, that' seems to be the consensus, even from non bikers and a local Honda hating 'outlaw' type.

All the snagging problems are fixed, I now have reliable indicators, a stable tickover and easy starting.

The only issues I'm keeping an eye on are

1) a drip of oil from the breather when left standing in the garage, possibly from slight overfilling, if its blowby I'm stuck with it, unless the rings need to bed in more in their new positions - I reused the originals as nothing seemed worn, but they aren't going to be exactly where they started. There's no visible smoke.

2) Charging, I've still never seen more than 12v running, but it came back from a long ride, with the lights on for the last few miles, still showing 12v so I don't think I've an issue, however I wouldn't be confident yet to go for a long ride in the dark.

[MrDavo]

An annoying rattle has started in the silencer, I presume something has come adrift. As the silencer is made from weapons grade unobtanium, and welded to the right hand header pipe, there is nothing I can do but put up with it for now. There are a couple of pins that have pulled out and a small crack along the top, but that was there already, and I can't tell or certain if that's where the rattle is coming from.



I will keep my eye on eBay in case DK or someone break a CL and put a decent one up for sale, but I'm not holding much hope of that. There is the odd one in the states, but condition is a total gamble and postage and tax a potential nightmare.

I've had a chat with my mate the professional bike repairer /restorer about investigative surgery come next winter. I suggested we cut the back off the box, fix whatetever's wrong and reweld, he thinks that wouldn't work, due to baffles etc that are welded all round, and thinks that a couple of small exploratory holes will be the way to go at first, maybe even borrow an endoscope (Julie?). He also reckons we can save the chrome when we reweld by wrapping the silencer in wet towels.

[royhall]

What a shame to have a problem like that already. There's always something on these owd uns.

[MrDavo]

Well it gives us something to do, Roy.

I just found DK do currently have a set of CL pipes, £399.99, look nice from a distance, and B*ll*xed at exactly the same place as mine...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CL450-CL-450-K3-On-1970-On-Up-Sweped-Exhaust-System-Headers-Silencers/352635696361

[K2-K6]

You can get products like this to help you,  cheaper at other places if you search.

https://www.frost.co.uk/cold-front-heat-stop-putty-paste-welding-brazing-soldering-14oz-414ml.html

If a scrap pipe was available it could be used for surgical research prior to the critical operation.

[MrDavo]

That's handy to know about, thanks.

If a scrap pipe was available it could be used for surgical research prior to the critical operation.

I thought we were talking about the potentially borrowed endoscope for a minute, I see what you mean though - knowing where to cut and look! I need to look at US forums etc to see if there are any pictures of what lies within.

[Johnwebley]

   I have an Aldi inspection camera,

  aprox 8mm dia,with LED illumination,about 36" long .

  with a about a 45mm screen.

 if you want to borrow,

  let me know,the carrying case is about 12" x 12" x 4"

[K2-K6]

Yes,  I was searching for a photo of cut open pipe as there are some others out there,  draw a blank on that one.

A friend used putty on a fuel tank to complete a braised repair underside near the seam,  very effective and no paint damage on tank face. Surprised us both with its effective performance.

Wonder if you could get the scope down to that point, guess you could navigate on screen through baffle plates, bit like a krypton factor task 

[MrDavo]

I found a photo of a CL450 silencer the same as mine cut open (who knows why), in an eBay listing. Like most CL450 projects up for sale recently it seems to have been left out in the rain for years, it makes me realise that I was lucky to find one that had been stored on the dry to restore.



The pulled spot welds and crack on my silencer (see earlier photo) seem to be in the same area as the curved vertical baffle shown, so maybe its that which has come adrift. I'll keep it on the road until winter, and cut away the back to have a look then, I'll also giver her a good service and check all the tappets and timing then. I keep silencers (one piece with the upper pipe) on my eBay watch list, but only near scrap ones come up for sale

500 miles done so far, all running well and no real problems other than the silencer rattle and an iffy indicator switch, it requires a 'knack' to signal a right turn. New switches are expensive but available.

The original clutch cable is very graunchy, so I have a new grey one coming from the states (only black ones seem to be available new here), I just paid the VAT and extortionate Royal Mail 'collection fee', so it should be here soon. Question, my service manual says nothing about lubricating cables, am I right in thinking that  Honda cables (OEM ones at least) are nylon lined, so you don't have to / shouldn't lubricate them?

[MrDavo]

I fitted the new clutch cable over the weekend, what a difference!

Now one finger operation and as light as a feather, remarkable compared with the British twins of the day, their clutches were like cracking walnuts with your bare hands. Also the full set of new grey cables look very smart.

[Bryanj]

Deffo DO NOT lube genuine cables it makes them worse! Inner is rubber covered and outer nylon lined so oil makes them swell up